Idyllic in Every Way

Hotel Blue & Lewes Delaware

February 27, 2012

5:28 AM

Weathered wooden-sided houses pop with colorful shutters. Sprays of hydrangeas spill out through picket fences. Bicyclists coast down Second Street en route to a simple breakfast, a morning paper and then the beach, or out for a day on the boat. It all sounds so idyllic, doesn’t it? Truthfully, it still describes summer living in Lewes, Delaware.

Settled by the Dutch in 1631, Lewes stakes its claim as the first town in Delaware and boasts a near perfect blend of preserved older homes, boutique shops, historical sites, good eats and antiques, not to mention its easy access to more than 4,000 preserved acres in Cape Henlopen State Park and its natural beaches.

Getting Settled

Our stay started with a gracious welcome at Hotel Blue (www.hotelblue.info), where we would spend two nights in one of the Tower Suites, complete with an über-comfy queen bed—appointed with a signature beach ball pillow—and surrounded by a curved bank of windows on three sides with a view of the boats that drift in and out of the canal. Our room’s lounging area featured a gas fireplace (especially great for an autumn getaway), flat-screen TV and mini-fridge—stocked with a few Rehoboth-brewed Dogfish Head lagers awaiting our arrival.

A relatively recent addition to the Lewes lodging scene, Hotel Blue is centrally situated—a five-minute walk from the historic downtown shopping and dining area and a 10-minute walk to the bayside beach. Late May to mid-October room rates range from $250-$320 a night.

The lobby decor is an eclectic mix of modern luxury, a shimmering tile fireplace and light streaming in every direction. Two white tinsel trees keep post beside the fireplace and are adorned with blown-glass starfish ornaments—another touch of Hotel Blue whimsy.

Guests are welcome to snacks all day from the spread of fresh fruit and state-of-the-art coffee center, which makes legitimate cappuccinos with the touch of the button—these are not your gas station wannabes.

Getting Out & About

With two days at your disposal, you might consider spending one exploring the sites around town and the other at the beach.

Walking is the easiest way to get around town. There’s no reason to hurry, right?

We chose to start our day with a simple breakfast of made-to-order omelets and fresh-squeezed juices from Books by the Bay Cafe (sit outside under the umbrellas; the friendly neighbor we met might just be out again touching up the paint on his picket fence). Or, if you’re feeling on-the-go, grab something sweet from the Lewes Bake Shoppe.

The shops on Second Street start to wake up mid-morning as flags and signs emerge from the storefonts and onto the sidewalk. There is everything from antiques to beach-inspired fine jewelry, toys and kites for the kids to trend-setting women’s fashions. Several hours should give you ample time to duck in and out of the shops.

If it’s a Saturday in summer, be sure to walk to the western edge of Third Street and on to the grounds of the Lewes Historical Society Complex where there is a “producer-only” farmers market, 8am to noon. Area gardeners and growers offer workshops and area chefs demonstrate recipes with market fresh produce.

History can be as large or small a part of your Lewes experience as you choose. During our stroll we stumbled upon the Zwaanendael Museum—its striking architecture was modeled after the town hall in Hoom, the Netherlands—which drew us in. The museum is run by the state of Delaware as a showcase for Lewes-area maritime, military and social history. Our favorite specimen was the Zwaanendael Merman—a mid-19th-century example of sailor folk art made from a shrunken monkey head, fish parts, ivory and hair, among other things. Story has it that it was conceived as a prank or sideshow curiosity at a time when sea captains would return from the world’s most exotic ports with tales of never-before-seen creatures. (If you’re feeling curious, google Zwaanendael Merman for a peek at this specimen online).

Downtime & Dinner

With a bit of downtime before dinner, we headed back to Hotel Blue for some sunbathing, a good book and a dip in the rooftop lounging pool. It’s a quiet spot, accessible to guests only, and a great way to cool off at the end of the day.

The staff at Hotel Blue is as hands-on or hand-off as you wish, perfect for our approach to travel, so we confidently took their recommendation for dinner at Café Azafrán (www.cafeazafran.com). We were glad we did.

Located within walking distance of the hotel, Café Azafrán offers a fresh, flavorful menu that spans breakfast, lunch, espresso and, of course, dinner. The roasted beet salad was a standout with baby greens, endive, asparagus, and candied pecans, topped with a light lemon dijon vinaigrette.

Our entrees included a light herb-encrusted Arctic Char ratatouille as well as pan-roasted chicken breast with dried fruits and chive mashed potatoes.

We finished the meal with the “Chocolate Gustos” which included a “fallen” souffle, chocolate caramel torte, “black magic” dark chocolate truffle, pot au chocolate and dark chocolate gelato. It’s rich and meant to be shared. Reservations are suggested, especially if you want to dine in the quaint outdoor courtyard.

There is no shortage of other dining options in Lewes, including Agave Tequila Bar & Restaurant (Mexican), The Buttery (upscale Continental dining, known for its Sunday brunch), Striper Bites Bistro (casual pub atmosphere) and Half Full (a wine bar with gourmet pizzas that’s open late.)

By the Beach

Because of its location, Lewes offers two distinct beach experiences. Someone looking to simply sit in the sand and sunbathe, read a book or play in the shallows with young children might want to consider the bayside beach. There are no significant waves to speak of, but the view is quite nice and it’s within walking distance of town.

Traditional beach-goers looking for a typical day of sun and surf will want to pack the car and head into Cape Henlopen for the day. There are several beach access points throughout the park. The most populated area offers a large parking lot and leads to a large bath house with showers and a food/concession stand. Another access point features a fishing pier and kayak rentals, and still another is the most remote and has a smaller parkling lot, but allows you to drive your SUV right down to the water.

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