Photography by Donovan Roberts Witmer
Though Chef Gunter Backhaus has been executing culinary creations at The Loft for more than 21 years, he has his daughter and daytime manager Kirsten Backhaus Smith keeping him on his toes by inspiring specials that keep up with her passion for the latest trends in the food world. But his old-fashioned methods of making everything from scratch are what keep his customers coming back for consistently prepared, quality food.
Take the duck liver pate he makes with pistachios and port wine; Backhaus hand-shells and peels each pistachio that goes into it. Everything is made in-house: the marble rye, whole wheat and French bread and the dressings.
“He makes his own garlic butter, which is phenomenal on top of the escargot, fish, on top of steaks with mushrooms,” says Denise Campbell, who has been with the restaurant for 25 years. Frog legs and oysters Rockefeller are two more of the classic dishes you won’t find on many menus these days. “We specialize in all sorts of oysters during the winter,” says Campbell. Backhaus also makes a meatloaf with hardboiled egg inside—a unique twist on the traditional Scottish egg.
“Our prices are reasonable with good portions,” says Back-haus. The burger, made of ground filet, is a real steal at just over $9.
The Loft's mushroom soup is a must-have.
For lunch or dinner, The Loft’s mushroom soup is a must-have. It was a special even before Backhaus bought the restaurant. “We’re in a good place to get fresh mushrooms from Avondale and Kennett Square,” to which Backhaus attributes the taste.
Entrée favorites include: roasted Long Island duck, halved and boneless with crispy skin and a raspberry tamarind glaze; pecan-crusted Norwegian salm-
on with red pepper basil sauce; the filet topped with crab imperial; and seared diver scallops topped with a balsamic glaze over blue crab succotash and whipped potatoes. And according to the staff, those in the know come on Friday and Saturday nights for the prime rib special.
Regulars know to call ahead and ask for the booths, but if you really want your privacy, ask for the wine room. There, two booths are tucked away beside the restaurant’s wine racks in the far back corner of the dining area where you can quietly enjoy chef Backhaus’ classic cuisine in your own time and space.
The Loft Restaurant: 201 W. Orange St., Lancaster 717-299-2010 www.theLoftLancaster.com
