Photography by Donovan Roberts Witmer
Saffron shrimp risotto with zucchini
For Susquehanna Valley residents, The Hotel Hershey’s offering of restaurants may not be the first that comes to mind for a weeknight, or even a weekend, out for dinner; however, a dynamic duo of new restaurants, Harvest and Trevi 5, are two reasons to consider it. After the wave of summer season tourists crests, what better time to take advantage of this five-star gem right in our own backyard? There you’ll be able to enjoy all the luxury service and amenities, including the manicured gardens and renowned architecture, as well as first class cuisine.
’Tis the Season
Tucked away behind the hotel, amid the grand renovations that include private cottages and outdoor activities like a year-round ice rink, sits a new concept to the cuisine offerings in Hershey. In an arts-and-crafts-inspired space, dark wood, hand-scraped, rustic-looking tables and stained glass give a “lodgey” feel with a refined air of elegance in the details, like beautiful silken fabrics on the backs of banquets. Open since July of 2009, the restaurant entertains a mixture of guests from those of the hotel to lots of locals who have become regulars.
When sous chef Marc Neumeister, a Culinary Institute of America grad, moved from California to work at Harvest, he says, “I did a Google search for farms [in the area] and found over 600.” That’s what makes the concept of Harvest so sensible for this region. Using mostly local ingredients from a 150-mile radius, the restaurant offers a fresh, farm-to-table dining experience. The restaurant supports and utilizes local growers like the Lancaster Farmers Co-op, Tuscarora Organic Growers Co-op, Landisdale Farm in Lebanon, Groffs Meats in Elizabethtown, Busy Bee Acres in Leola and Green Meadow Farm in Lancaster.
The menu’s concept of genuine American cuisine, overseen by executive chef Ken Gladysz, spans the country, from Neumeister’s California turkey burger ($13) and the southwestern barbeque chocolate chicken quesadilla appetizer ($9) to East Coast favorites like the Boston wedge salad with honey mustard glazed pork belly ($9) and fish and chips made with Rhode Island haddock battered in Yuengling ($19).
Of course, there are nods to Pennsylvania traditions too. For starters, the sharp cheddar and beer cheese dip, which Neumeister confirms is very popular, is made with Appalachian Brewing Company’s Mountain Lager and served with fresh pretzel bread and Pennsylvania apples ($9). Another appetizer, “Mom and Pops” pirogues are handmade in Wilkes Barre with potato and cheese and served with caramelized onion and crème fraiche ($9).
Many of the entrees classify as comfort food–and there are even daily specials reminiscent of a country diner–with upscale ingredients and preparation. Harvest even hosts an old-fashioned Saturday “prime rib night.” Theirs is served rubbed in garlic and black pepper with caramelized potato and onion gratin and roasted mushrooms ($29).
For dessert, a fresh fruit pie of the day changes with the seasons. Harvest also serves handcrafted cocktails like the apple harvest martini made with 10 Cane Rum, Di Saronno Amaretto, apple juice, ground cinnamon and nutmeg ($12) as well as a broad beer and wine selection. Be sure to have a nightcap or coffee around the outdoor fire pit just outside the restaurant for a unique end to the evening.
Chocolatetown meets Italy
Trevi 5, located just off the Fountain Lobby in what was formerly the Fountain Café, offers an authentic Italian dining experience to Hershey’s dining scene. In fact, when chef Laura Simpson found out The Fountain Café was changing to an Italian restaurant, she planned a trip for her and her team to go to Italy to study and try the cuisine from three distinct regions. A Culinary Institute of America graduate, Simpson furthered her training with the Italian government’s program “Cucina e Cultura,” which educates chefs on specific Italian ingredients in hopes they will source them at their restaurants.
The concept of the restaurant is simple; its namesake–the Trevi fountain in Rome–and the number 5 refers to how dishes are often made with only a few high quality ingredients. The menu design embodies that tradition.
Suited for family-style sharing, the tables are clear of large centerpieces, so people can see each other and talk over the meal, explains Simpson. Even the water glasses are extra low and notably cool. The lighting from Murano, original Scavo glass pieces, is the real focal point of décor. “Scavo,” which means “excavated” in Italian, describes the weathered finish of the glass, achieved by dipping it into a mixture of minerals, ash and fine sand.
“The shaping of the menu is the style and process of eating we enjoyed in Italy,” explains Simpson. The pacing of the menu encourages guests to build their own experience of hot, cold, small plates, pizzas, meats and cheeses. “We’ve gotten a lot of comments about the salume e formaggio [or meats and cheeses],” says Simpson.
The pizzas there are really popular too. “We tried 15 pizzas in 11 days in Italy,” recalls Simpson on their journey to achieve authenticity. There’s the formaggi pizza with mozzarella, creamy pungent fontina and ricotta topped with truffle oil ($9), and gamberi pizza made with shrimp, pesto, artichokes, roasted red peppers and mozzarella ($9).
Fresh made pastas like seasonal ravioli are a special treat for anyone who’s in the know on homemade pastas. Meanwhile, penne Bolognese with pork, veal and sausage ragu is a favorite among staff and regulars alike ($18).
There’s also a whole grilled fish of the day, and you may create your own experiences with steaks, chicken and lamb chops by choosing your contorni, or sides, to make a meal that’s as Italian or American as you like. Choose from rosemary mashed potatoes or fontina polenta, Florentine risotto or balsamic braised Cipollini onions, just to name a few.
Dessert, or dolce, is always a sweet finish in Hershey, whether its tiramisu cioccoloto ($8), ricotta cheesecake ($8) or a plate of Italian cookies and cannoli ($6).
The Hotel Hershey 100 Hotel Road, Hershey | 717-534-8800; www.thehotelhershey.com
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Citrus polenta cake with blood orange sauce (Trevi 5)
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Harvest
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Chicken confit salad with horseradish vinaigrette (Harvest)
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Homemade apple pie (Harvest)
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Braised beef shortrib with roasted Chester County wild mushrooms over bacon scallion mashed potatoes
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Italian sodas with flavors like hazelnut & currant (Trevi 5)
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Trevi 5
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Fig & prosciutto pizza with arugula (Trevi 5)
