In France’s quiet region of Alsace thrives a small community of new-generation winemakers who are pushing traditional winemaking methods into the future with new varieties, earth-friendly practices and mouth-watering results.
Alsatian wines are approachable, diverse in style and flavor profiles, and among some of the most food-friendly wines on the planet. Lara Michole Tillotson, sommelier at Gabriel Kreuther, a two Michelin-starred restaurant in New York City, naturally gravitates towards Alsatian wines—and not just because chef/owner Kreuther is from the region. She appreciates the wines for their range—“from light and ethereal expressions to rich, decadent SGN (“selection of noble berries”) dessert wines and literally everything in between.”
“[It’s] an absolute haven for white-wine drinkers,” she says.
Alsace white wines are made from 11 varieties, including the four noble white grapes: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Muscat. They may be vinified as single-varietal wines, but must be composed 100% of that variety when labeled as such. This is easy and transparent, especially compared to other labeling in France that doesn’t mention the grape variety at all. With so many allowable grapes and clear labeling, Alsace wines are poised to attract many different wine lovers who are not familiar with the region.
Alsace wines tend to be well priced, while not compromising quality, mostly due to their under-the-radar status. Tillotson says they are “amongst the finest … usually a fraction of what comparable-quality producers from Burgundy generally cost.” This is especially true considering how many grand crus are in the 10-mile-wide, 80-mile-long region. Alsace’s 51 grand cru plots make up 5% of the production for all of Alsace wine (in comparison, grand crus production is a mere 1% of the total production of wine in Burgundy).
Having spent many years in New York City working for the Alsatian-born chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who was known for amplifying Asian flavors in French cuisine, I had the opportunity to taste why Alsatian Riesling and Gewurztraminer pair so well with multicultural cuisines. The ripe fruit flavors of peach and apricot, and tropical-fruit flavors of lychee in these wines perfectly balance the spicy notes of Thai chili, Sichuan pepper, Galangal (or ginger) and garlic. While these culinary flavors are neither native to Alsace nor Pennsylvania, world cuisines are reaching the smaller regions in the United States, and there seems to be an increased craving for them locally. Two Japanese restaurants, Issei Noodle in Lancaster and Mister Lee's Noodles in Bethlehem, for example, recently opened second locations of their successful restaurants. Japanese spices such as Togarashi and black pepper featured in their noodle dishes pair well with the full fruit flavors of Alsatian white wines.
Sommeliers and wine directors throughout the United States are gravitating towards Alsatian wines for a variety of reasons. Tiffany Tobey, sommelier and wine director at the The Ritz-Carlton Dallas, Las Colinas, loves the textures and acidity of the wines, saying these two aspects make them “the perfect wines for fun food pairings.” With minimal use of oak, she says she finds the wines have a “wonderful expression of the individual grapes and the natural flavors of the terroir of Alsace.”
The interlinked culture of food and wine are a natural reason to explore Alsatian wines. Kat Thomas, sommelier at Ada's Food + Wine in Las Vegas, says the region has “cultivated a unique identity centered on the art and science of fine wine, delicious cuisine, value, sustainability, a blend of old and new world views, and unforgettable experiences.” Closer to home, Kenny Johnson, assistant general manager and wine buyer at blue grillhouse in Bethlehem says they are “a love letter to the soul. Each sip unlocks memories, dances on taste buds, and whispers stories of the land, invoking a deeper connection that transcends you and I.”
For as much as they are critics’ darlings, Alsatian wines can be hard to find on a restaurant wine list or on the store shelves. If you want to taste these wines or better yet, experience culinary pairings with these amazing wines, I encourage you to start a conversation with your favorite sommelier or wine buyer. They will appreciate your interest in their wine list and in an exciting region making fantastic wines, which, likely they love, but didn’t know you were interested in!
For more information on Alsatian wines, go to Vins d'Alsace: Official site of the Alsace wine-growing area or Alsace Rocks. Alsace wines are available online at Grapes The Wine Company or Fine Wine & Good Spirits (FWGS) and in the FWGS Lancaster Stores.
