It’s July and it’s hot. The swimming pool is crowded with splashing children and the chaise lounges surrounding it sizzle in the high sun. Vacation is not yet here – or it’s already come and gone. Now what?
The happiest – and coolest – people are out on the local creeks, rivers, and lakes, either floating lazily along in their innertubes with ice chests tied on or in a boat, canoe, or kayak. They weave in and out of the sun, under moss-laden tree branches, along grassy meadows, deep forests, farmland, cityscape, cliffs, and more. The temperature seems to be at least 10 degrees cooler here – and even if it’s not, a splash from the paddle offers quick relief.
Often, especially if it’s quiet without too many people about, herons seem to majestically guide the way – flying just ahead with frequent stops to make sure the boater is not getting too close. Waterfowl and wildlife abound in serene settings offering a different kind of cool.
Kayaking offers not only a different perspective of the surroundings, but also offers a quick and easy break from the daily heat and stress of life. Most people in South Central Pennsylvania live within at least a half-hour’s drive of a good waterway.
For me, that’s the Swatara Creek that snakes from north of Route 78 west past Bethel in Berks County all the way to the Susquehanna River in Royalton. Since I live in Hershey, I have less than a 10-minute drive to put in at one of several good spots on the Swatty – just off Sand Beach Road at Boathouse Park, off Hanover Street at Swatara Creek Park, or at Schiavoni Park in Hummelstown. Other nearby launches are also close by, but these are our favorite.
If we’re ambitious, we float one direction and paddle hard back the other. On less ambitious days, we take two cars. First, we drop a car at the finish, then we drive back to the start together, paddle to the finish, one of us sits with the kayaks, and the other drives back to get the pickup truck that carries the kayaks and returns in the pickup, we load the kayaks, drive back to the start and pick up the other vehicle. It’s kind of a silly back and forth, but well worth it if we’d like a more leisurely time on the creek.
Depending on where we are on the Swatty, it can feel quiet and serene, lonely and swampy, rough and wild, or loud and loose. Particularly along the creekside in Hummelstown, innertubers are linked together as they party hearty, blasting music and swigging beer and seltzers.
No matter which part we’re on, it’s a refreshing getaway from highways we pass under and the crazy day life we’ve escaped. It’s cool and exotic. The herons and egrets are sights to behold and truly make me feel like we’re following Gandalf as he leads our passage along the creek. We see turtles, frogs, fish, jumping bugs, and deer along with many varieties of flora and fauna.
Susquehanna Sojourns
The Susquehanna also offers an enjoyable escape, but it’s important to note water levels as well as where to put in and take out of the water. Especially dangerous is the Dock Street Dam, located near the Shipoke section just north of the I-83 bridge in Harrisburg. It is a run-of-the-river low-head dam, where more than 30 lives have been lost in accidents since 1935. This type of dam has continuous overflow meaning that it creates a hydraulic condition that can suck things into it. Although the dam is well posted, conditions, darkness, and ignorance still often lead boaters into it.
That should mean that boaters consider putting in below the dam and continuing downstream, or starting well above the dam, and paddling north.
Recent summers have made the Susquehanna less of a choice for us – either water much too high or much too low. When it doesn’t rain for weeks, the Susquehanna can drop so low that water depth drops to the point where kayaks can get hung up or scrape the bottom. Sometimes, it’s necessary to get out and walk for small stretches. When the water is too high, it also becomes swifter and can lead a novice to a feeling of being a bit out of control.
Gear Up
A good kayak is the most important part of having a fun and safe experience. To control the moments that feel out of control, a kayak with a retractable skeg is a must. Think of a skeg as a bit like a rudder – both will help to steer. A rudder, however, will deflect water in a particular direction to help to turn a boat while a skeg will resist the turning affect caused by wind and water and help keep the boat on a straight keel.
To that end, most kayakers will advise newcomers to try the sport out by renting a kayak and then going to a boat/canoe/kayak store, not a box store. Buying a kayak can be as distinctive as buying a good bike or a new car – everyone has different tastes and interests and newcomers will want to be sure to buy a kayak that matches their interests.
Some kayaks are for whitewater use, some are for use on the open sea, some are for fishing, some are hybrids or crossovers. Are you more of a floater or someone seeking aggressive adventure? This will determine the type of kayak to buy. It’s always best to consult with an expert at a store that deals only in boats, canoes, and kayaks.
We’re lucky to have quite a few places like that around, including some that do rentals and drop-offs, too. Blue Mountain Outfitters in Marysville offers a large selection of kayaks for rent or for sale. It even offers a rent-to-buy program. Further south, a short paddle from the Susquehanna near the Maryland border in Delta, PA, Starrk Moon Kayaks has been matching people with kayaks for more than 35 years.
Brad Nelson, 74, owner of Starrk Moon Kayaks, advises spending up a little on a kayak. “Kayaking is something that you will get out of it what you put into it,” he said, adding that “I got to really fight to sell the right boat to people.”
Stark said he gets many customers who bought their first kayak cheaply at a box store who want to trade it in for something better. He will take the trade-ins, which he said he often sells easily to the Amish who just want something “used, cheap, and wrong.”
It doesn’t end with the kayak. Good, lightweight paddles (nylon blades and glass/carbon shafts) will make a difference when cutting through the water. Kayak stores can also advise on this. Keep in mind that kayak paddles are two-bladed (a blade on either end) meaning the kayaker will cut through the water on one side, then will shift to the other side and continue back and forth in contrast to one-blade oars used when canoeing. The paddle is not connected to the kayak.
Of course, it’s important to also wear a personal flotation device, to bring water, and sunscreen, and to wear water shoes. Depending on the length of time someone’s out, it might be important to consider clothing as well. A good map will help in navigation and safety.
Speaking of Maps
Novices also need to know where to go and how to be safe. As noted above, it’s important to avoid areas like the Dock Street Dam. I’m not aware of all the other possible snafus, so it’s important to educate yourself before going out. It’s also necessary to figure out where it’s possible to put in and take out. Outfitter and kayak shops often offer routes as do local clubs and organizations.
Another excellent source is a Purple Lizard Map. Published by experienced cartographers in State College, Purple Lizard offers 10 different maps for different state lands and recreational areas in Pennsylvania along with a map of all of Pennsylvania. Along with water trails, the maps also identify rail trails and parking areas, hiking trails, river current direction, public campgrounds, cross country and downhill skiing areas, mountain bike destinations, and much more.
Some water-sport groups in South Central Pennsylvania include the Conestoga River Club that offers all kinds of support on the Conestoga Water Trail and the Canoe Club of Greater Harrisburg. Most sports and outfitters stores will always be happy to help people find safe and enjoyable kayaking spots.
A New Way to See Things
Lancaster County was fortunate in late May to play host to the US Women’s Open golf tournament at Lancaster Country Club. An enterprising reporter for Lancaster Newspapers, Kevin Stairiker, decided to write about it from his perch in a kayak in the Conewago River, where his best view was of hole seven. You can read his reporting here: https://lancasteronline.com/news/local/heres-what-its-like-watching-the-us-womens-open-from-a-kayak-in-the-conestoga/article_98012a20-1ec1-11ef-a4f5-1bbe2fc5c416.html
Stairiker confessed to me that this was only his second time kayaking – the first came last year when he wrote an article about the OuttaSight Guide Leadership program, a branch of a national program called Team River Runner, which started in 2004 to introduce veterans (particularly those who are visionally impaired) to kayaking. In that experience, Stairiker had to kayak blindfolded and learn to follow and give commands. Here’s the link: https://lancasteronline.com/news/local/follow-my-voice-what-it-s-like-to-kayak-the-conestoga-blindfolded-and-why-column/article_b51e22b0-2be3-11ee-b677-03e8eb9e0304.html
I had contacted Stairiker thinking he might have some kayaking tips in the Lancaster area, but alas he did not. What he did tell me though was that after these two experiences, he could see himself taking it up as a hobby and getting his own kayak someday, adding, “Kayaking can be so fun, whether you have a specific destination or if you just plan on moseying down a body of water.”
Don’t tell his editors, but Stairiker also confessed to enjoying the kayaking part of his golf assignment more than the golf itself. “That being said, it’s fascinating to watch the land on both sides transform bit by bit along the way, from green spaces to fancy houses to a golf course and back again. It’s just one more way to see how vast the ecosystem of Lancaster County is,” Stairiker said, adding that he enjoyed creating stories about things he floated past.
Another writer friend, Gina Napoli, recently recommended kayaking for families in her June article for The Burg. Find her tips here: https://theburgnews.com/home-front/family-float-local-outfitters-offer-tips-for-introducing-kids-to-kayaking-water-safety
There’s More – and Then There’s More
Don’t stop here with my recommendations for waterways and outfitters. The area has many more groups and businesses that offer tours, rentals, companionship, routes, and more. Pinpoint a spot on a map, google the area, and take off.
Nelson of Starrk Moon Kayaks recommends Holtwood Whitewater Park, a $4 million manmade kayak park at the foot of the Holtwood Hydroelectric Dam next to the Susquehanna for surfing waves. Near his shop, he gives shuttles to the Muddy Creek, where he says the water looks like Oregon or Idaho and is “a true paddling destination for the Mid-Atlantic.” He has many more recommendations. Just stop in and ask him. His shop is located at 497 Cold Cabin Road in Delta, PA.
My family tries to make kayaking a part of our vacations as well. We’ve kayaked on the ocean in Hawaii, through the mangroves and out into the ocean in Key West, and at Havre de Grace, Maryland, where the mighty Susquehanna meets the Chesapeake Bay and feels like an ocean. Each trip is a memorable adventure.
For more information on kayaking locally talk to Brad Nelson at Starrk Moon Kayaks, who’s also self-published a stream-of-consciousness book on kayaking called “Don’t Call Em Yaks 4” available on Amazon or visit his website at https://www.starrkmoon.com. Other sources include the Conestoga River Club at https://conestogariverclub.org the Canoe Club of Greater Harrisburg at https://www.ccghpa.com, Susquehanna Outfitters at https://www.susquehannaoutfitters.com, Blue Mountain Outfitters at https://www.bluemountainoutfitters.net/index.html, the Lehigh Valley Kayak and Canoe Club at https://www.lehighvalleycanoeclub.org, WatersEdge Kayak Club, Baltimore at https://www.facebook.com/groups/WatersEdgeKayakClub/, and more. For more information on Purple Lizard maps, go to https://www.purplelizard.com or see my article at https://theburgnews.com/special-sections/map-quests-purple-lizard-leads-the-way-to-summertime-adventures.
To read more work by Deb Lynch, check out her website: https://www.debelynch.com/.
