Photography by Donovan Roberts Witmer
Excitement built as people buzzed with expectation about what would become of the former Auntie Anne’s Café, housed on the uniquely shaped apex of Harrisburg Pike and Charlotte Street on the edge of downtown Lancaster. The trapezoid end to a row of renovated warehouses turned retail spaces was creating chatter as the windows went black and residents anxiously awaited to see what would emerge behind them. In October 2007, the doors opened. The sleek four letters that spell out Fenz on a black sign outside gave indication of something hip; inside, it’s like nothing you’ve ever seen in this area.
It’s design at its best. Deliberate and thoughtful. Square pistachio leather barstools echo a modern linear theme balanced by chic black granite on both bars. Everything, from the flora out front and dotting the tables inside to the classic Louis XIV chairs—some “ghost chairs” and some with black frames covered in funky green stripes—to the silverware, is exceptionally special. Anyone who knows Bob Fenninger and his work would expect nothing less. His hospitality consulting business requires him to stay on top of the latest trends in the industry which has served him well in the world of restaurants, catering and weddings. His partner proprietor, Julie Grove Slack, operates the business end of things at Fenz, and also brings her experience in the restaurant business to the menu with her very own meatloaf recipe. Julie’s meatloaf
redux is a blend of pork, beef and veal speckled with carrot and spinach and finished with a tomato red pepper relish, served alongside homemade baked macaroni and cheese ($16.50).
Amid all the attention paid to ambience, there is nothing lacking when it comes to the food and drink here. Offerings and options run the gastronomical gamut. The Fenz After Office menu features drink specials and bar bites at attractive pricing. Their Breakers Style pickle fries served with a tangy remoulade ($6.50) are a must-try and new Susquehanna Style favorite guilty pleasure. Other bar bites include a trio of deviled eggs ($3.50), biscuits with mustard pork barbeque served with a spot of slaw ($7), a bistro grilled cheesesteak served open face with onions and blue cheese ($14), and house red bliss potato chips ($3.50).
“We do almost all of our produce shopping at market".
Chef Daniella Ward, who joined Fenz from The Breakers at Palm Beach may have borrowed a few things from her experience there, but the menu is truly a refl ection of Fenninger’s infl uence and Ward’s preparation of selected seasonal ingredients. “We do almost all of our produce shopping at market. What Daniella finds there often becomes the inspiration for the vegetable of the day or special appetizers,” notes Fenninger. Both the chef and sous chef were at times vegetarians, he adds, so they’re very flexible and enjoy the opportunity to reach out and do interesting things with vegetables. “The menu changes seasonally, but many customer favorites will show up [again]. Plus, two appetizer and three entrée specials each day.” Also be sure to ask about the new tasting menu and a popular trend to end a meal—dessert minis, a changing selection of bite size desserts you choose, mix, match and share.
“We organized the menu around flexibility and a feeling of casualness in fine dining,” explains Fenninger. “Many of us are intrigued by a variety of tastes as opposed to committing to one plate.”
But if you want something a little more, the full menu is always available at both the upstairs and downstairs bars. A traditional menu of appetizers includes Chef Ward’s cheese sampler of 5 intriguing tastes served on slate ($11). The grilled baby lamb chops with their pomegranate drizzle are engaging—savory and tangy atop crisp and sweet shaved carrots ($14).
“Many items [on the menu] are timeless and recognizable,” says Fenninger, “But can benefit from some of what’s in tune now.” Take the chopped salad. “It’s sort of a country club classic,” Fenninger says, but the Fenz version updates classic club ingredients with a green herb crème fraiche dressing and has become quite a hit among regulars ($7/$10). There’s also steak Diane, grilled and topped with a contemporary variation of the classic sauce comprised of shallots, brandy, pinot noir and a demi-glace reduction ($26).
Fenz offers a refreshing variety of wines by the glass—10 to 14 on average. Be sure to ask for the list of “right now wines” also known as “Bob’s shopping list.” There you’ll find the inside scoop on the available seasonal pours. Sip the libation of your choice, from brews and spirits to cocktails from the specialty drink menu.
Fenz has found a perfect balance of cuisine and couture design to enhance any occasion—whether it’s an after hours gathering with friends or co-workers, a romantic dinner for two tucked away in a private nook upstairs, or a night out on the town in the see-and-be-seen spots at the restaurant’s entrance (just be sure to call ahead if you want the round booth under the chandelier.) Fenninger says he recommends reservations anytime, actually, “But I also encourage spontaneity.”
398 Harrisburg Ave., Suite 100 (Corner of Harrisburg Pike and Charlotte Street), Lancaster 717-735-6999 www.fenzrestaurant.com
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