Photography by Donovan Roberts Witmer
Allen Brothers strip steak with a trio of sauces: Au poivre, veal demi glace, & house steak sauce
Finding a fine dining gem, even if it’s a rediscovery, is always refreshing. Especially when it comes with a 20-year history of hospitality and superb cuisine. Every now and again we stumble on a restaurant that’s been a timeless tradition we simply have never been to. The Golden Sheaf was one of them.
I had heard of its reputation through a couple I consider purveyors of all things fine who dine there all the time, so I trusted what we would find would be nothing less than impeccable.
While many fine dining restaurants have changed their tune to accommodate the more casual ways of society and dining, The Golden Sheaf remains a place where everything feels special.
Before our first course had even come out, we had three people tending to our table. The sommelier poured Prosecco, a nice, dry choice, not too sweet for our stuffed scallop appetizer followed by oysters prepared three ways. Bread from Ciao Bakery next door came served with Normandy butter (all the way from France) speckled with Hawaiian black lava salt. Next, a duo of soup samples: Chilled honeydew with mint, honey and crème fraiche as well as warm English pea soup with lobster. By determining which of the soups we liked best, our server, Matthew, decided the next course. For the lady, he said, watermelon carpaccio with goat cheese and balsamic reduction. For my husband, short rib ravioli with blue cheese and nuts. Both dishes were spot-on for our distinct tastes—and served with Sauvignon Blanc. Next our server suggested we take a break, and take our wine outside (mind you, this was the end of summer) to enjoy the live jazz on the patio while the chef prepared our next course. As a side note, any restaurant that is sourcing sustainable seasonable ingredients as the Golden Sheaf is will not have these kinds of dishes on the menu in the middle of winter.
Matthew was unabashedly enthusiastic in heightening our experience in any way he could; with genuine warmth, he had us laughing in delight all evening. When we commented at how much we appreciate the time that goes into preparing beef short rib, he joked, “That’s what I call a four-bottle preparation–because that’s how many bottles of wine you have to drink before it’s ready!” The restaurant filled with crescendos of laughter throughout the evening, a combination of good wine and good company.
It bears repeating: It’s the people that make the place. And this is true for a restaurant which seems the most unassuming place you’d be likely tofind that. Located inside the Hilton Harrisburg on 2nd Street, the restaurant is a hidden treasure tucked in the corner with an intimate dining room that seats only 50–plus a private dining room that can seat up to 30.
Executive chef John Reis opened the restaurant 20 years ago and is still there today to oversee the operations. Sous chef Matt Stallings studied at Pennsylvania Culinary of Pittsburgh and under Jason Viscount, executive chef of Bricco, The Golden Sheaf’s sister restaurant. “Everyone takes this as a profession and has such a passion for food here. We’re basically all food geeks,” laughs restaurant manager Chris Zeigler. “Some servers have been here for over 10 years.” The newest has been there six years, he adds.
The Golden Sheaf is Harrisburg’s only AAA Four Diamond, winning the award for 17 years in a row, and was also selected by Wine Spectator Magazine as “Best of 2010,” among only 788 restaurants in the country. Named “one of the nation’s most wine-friendly restaurants” by Wine Enthusiast Magazine in 2009, The Golden Sheaf was also an OpenTable.com “Diners’ Choice Winner” in 2009.
“Our wine list reads like a novel,” says Zeigler, “With wines anywhere from 30 dollars to 1,000 dollars.” And 25 wines by the glass offer quite the selection too.
But even with the atmosphere and all the accolades, Stallings says, “We’re very pro-come-as-you-are.” No jackets are required, though many will be wearing them; you’ll also likely see tourists dressed to travel in the mix.
While Stallings changes the menu seasonally, four times a year, there are a couple of popular pleasers you can count on finding there. The restaurant is proud to serve Allen Brothers Steaks, which supplies some of the most famous steakhouses in the country, such as Charlie Trotter’s and Emeril’s Chophouse. And while I’m not usually a huge fan of strip steaks, the one we had there was surprisingly tender and flavorful–even more so enhanced by a trio of sauces: House steak sauce which boasts a hearty horseradish kick, succulent veal demi glace, and my favorite, the au poivre, for its peppered creamy consistency. The other dish diners come back again and again for are the seared scallops stuffed with lump crab, served with a rock shrimp succotash over vanilla beurre blanc.
Desserts, all made by Ciao Bakery, range from hazelnut gelato and citrus flan to a decadent chocolate covered cheesecake bomb. As he cleared our plates, our server said, “Do you feel like you’ve died and went to heaven?” With our happy nods, his smile confirmed his job was done.
The Golden Sheaf | 1 North 2nd Street, Harrisburg | 717-237-6400 | www.hilton.com
Hours: Open Weekdays 11:30am-2pm, 5:30pm-10pm; Sat 5:30pm-10pm
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Triple chocolate cake, the signature dessert
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Most popular dish: Crab stuffed scallops with rock shrimp succotash & vanilla beurre blanc.
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“In Good Company” by Thomas Arvid; a vintage from the award-winning wine list
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The intimate interior
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It’s all about the service and experienced team at The Golden Sheaf, making for a memorable meal. L to R: Chris Zeigler, restaurant manager; Matt Stallings, sous chef; executive chef John Reis.
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