Photography by Donovan Roberts Witmer
This year, Susquehanna Style adds three regional restaurants to our annual list of 50 local favorites in fine dining. Read along for an introduction to these dining destinations.
Restaurant Redux
There’s just something about Lancaster that makes you want to stay. A small-town atmosphere with big-city culture and a food scene that rivals nearby metropolitan areas is more than enough to convince even seasoned travelers to plant roots.
David Payne and Masami Kawano, owners of Checkers Bistro, prove this point. Payne, originally from the U.K., took a transfer with Sheraton to Atlanta, then bounced through some of America’s big-name cities—Kansas City, Saint Louis, Daytona— before finally ending up in the Susquehanna Valley to help open the Lancaster Arts Hotel.
None of the other American cities caught the couple’s fancy quite like this idyllic locale. “We really liked Lancaster; that’s why we settled here,” says Payne. “And we had the opportunity to lease 300 James St. at that time.” Those acquainted with the downtown Lancaster haunts are likely familiar with Checkers Bistro’s previous location at that address.
Lancaster food lovers swarmed to the James Street hot spot. In fact, the eatery became so popular that Payne and Kawano could no longer allow the business to grow. In 2009, a space with incredible potential became available, and the pair did not hesitate to begin a major overhaul to create the present Checkers Bistro.
Alison McIndoe of A.K. Interiors worked closely with the owners to develop the look and feel of the space. On the site of the former Champion Blower and Forge Co. factory, the historic building had a limitless supply of exposed brick and industrial details that worked perfectly with the design. Walls were opened, and entrances re-routed, and everything was coated in a sophisticated palette of dark grays, navy blues and rich browns, highlighted by sparkling crystal chandeliers and hanging orbs of capiz shell.
Certain elements of the design were a must, like the tufted black velvet booths that appear on nearly every wall in the space. “At the old Checkers, people thought it was very intimate, and we wanted to keep that feeling,” Payne explains. The walls created by the booths’ oversized backs divide the restaurant into intimate spaces, deaden sound and add coziness for the diner.
One could conclude that the luxurious ambiance at Checkers Bistro is enough reason to make a reservation, but the cuisine is well worth it, too. The menu is full of French- and Asian-influenced favorites from the previous location, but with seasonal additions from executive chef Daniel Quishpe. Regulars often recommend the Peking duck tacos: savory shreds of barbecued duck, served in a crispy wonton taco, swiped with guacamole and accented with microgreens, hoisin and hot chili oil.
Their famous steaks are also not to be missed. Payne mentions that the coffee-cured petite filet is of particular note, as the meat is given a dry rub of very finely ground coffee and cocoa before it is prepared, topped with a port wine gastrique and nestled with potato gratin and asparagus.
If you’re just stopping by for an after-dinner dessert and nightcap, don’t miss the expertly crafted layered praline mousse: tiers of praline and hazelnut sponge and chocolate mousse, drizzled with raspberry sauce and topped with whimsical honey tuille. Or just drink your dessert in the form of a chocolate hazelnut martini, accented by a Hershey kiss. After all, it’s just another reason to savor the Susquehanna Valley.
Checkers Bistro | 398 Harrisburg Ave., Suite 700, Lancaster | www.checkersbistro.com | 717-509-1069
Agri Culture
Josh Short sits on a stool at the bar inside Harvest Seasonal Grill and Wine Bar, the words Executive Chef neatly embroidered on his starched white chef’s coat. “I want people to realize that this is a seasonal restaurant more than anything else,” he says. “We’re helping farms throughout the entire year. Know your farmer; know your food.”
The restaurant’s menu is a testament to Short’s statement, listing at the top 12 farms where their ingredients are sourced, each followed by the familiar names of towns spanning the mid-state: Manheim, Ronks, Paradise. Local produce, meats, cheeses, and even honey go into Harvest’s dishes, almost all of which are under 500 calories. “We don’t even have a fryer in the restaurant,” Short mentions.
The health-conscious and seasonal focus of the establishment can be credited to the owner of the regional chain of Harvest locations, Dave Magrogan, who is vegetarian and shares Short’s love of “super fresh” fare. It’s a mentality that has made each of Magrogan’s four Pennsylvanian locations a success thus far.
That’s not to say Harvest’s offerings are short on flavor. In fact, the culinary staff’s approach to flavor is one of their most impressive qualities; they’re not afraid to play it safe in some respects. Short says his personal style involves taking familiar flavors and giving them a modern twist, perhaps working with unexpected textures or presentation for interest. Although the flavors are well known, “it will surprise your palate,” he says.
You’ll be stunned at the manner in which dishes are refreshed with each season of the year. For instance, U10 scallops (that’s short for under 10 per pound, meaning hearty) are given an infusion of Caribbean flavors in the warmest months of the year, nestled in papaya salsa and coconut jasmine rice, drizzled with caramelized pineapple puree. In fall, however, the rich, spongy scallops are accompanied by a blood orange gastrique, fennel puree, sweet baby carrots and crisp asparagus.
Peer down Harvest’s large autumn menu to find cioppino, another example of their elegant simplicity of flavor. This staple fisherman’s stew is crafted from fresh, never frozen seafood that is brought in daily: shrimp, sea bass, lump crab, clams. Nothing goes to waste. Short says he loves the dish’s back-to-the-basics beauty. “We can’t ever forget about these traditional dishes. They are sacred to everything we do here.”
Keeping sustainability top-of-mind is just as sacred for Harvest. Natural elements—often appearing in saturated rustic tones like berry, sage and auburn—are incorporated in the restaurant’s décor. Hand-cut stone covers walls throughout the space; fresh grasses border the dining room; even the bar top Short leans against as he speaks is made of recycled glass.
Sustainability spans to the extensive wine list too, with most of the selections hailing from green wineries that use biodynamic, organic or carbon neutral practices. A selection of wines and beers from surrounding counties is\ available as well.
Harvest employees are excited at the opportunities this first year in business offers in Harrisburg, a market less saturated in farm-to-table style eateries. “Our company culture encourages charging forward,” Short says. “Here, we’re living life with what we want to happen in mind, surrounding ourselves with people we aspire to be.”
Harvest Seasonal Grill and Wine Bar | 2625 Brindle Road, Harrisburg | www.harvestseasonalgrill.com | 717-545-4028
Love Story
In many ways, Tutoni’s is a love story. That’s the tale Tony Calderone is most excited to tell when asked about his restaurant’s beginnings. It’s hard not to start with the name of the eatery: a clever combination of his wife, also Toni, and himself.
For the Calderones, the industry was not only a passion but also a rich heritage, with multiple generations in the Italian restaurant business. And with Toni’s expertise as a sommelier, the young pair was excited to venture out on their own. But the market in Orlando where they first settled was saturated, so they set their sights to the Susquehanna Valley. “We loved the small town mentality of York,” Tony says. “We saw there was the opportunity to do new things here.”
The journey was long and full of twists and turns. What was originally a plan to open a wine bar turned into a full Italian restaurant, opened on the site of the former Coliseo on North George Street early this summer. “It was a great canvas to work with,” says Calderone. “I’m honored to be here and not to have to start completely over.”
The existing space had no shortage of Italianate detail, most of which remains in Tutoni’s. Concrete in sandy tones covers the walls and forms columns, mimicking the stone of Italy’s ancient, palatial buildings; cast Roman busts in the same hue accent the molding. Graphic slate- and cream-toned tile covers the floor, and a deep, earthy color palette adds a sense of drama to the space.
Hand-painted elements appear throughout, including a tray ceiling with brushstrokes to resemble marble veining. A fountain trickles down to the first floor dining room over a faux terra cotta rooftop.
To go along with the new restaurant’s farm-to-table theme, the Calderones added a few décor details, including hand-lettered chalkboards that proudly proclaim their local farm sources. A pallet wall of rough-cut pine separates the dining spaces on both the first and second floors. An olive branch, a recurring element in the restaurant, appears as a wall-mounted metal sculpture crafted by York City’s artist-in-residence Patrick Sells, and is also stamped into each concrete tabletop.
The menu plays nicely with the natural, agrarian additions to the ambiance. Scott Robinson, executive chef, points to the chalkboard list of local farms behind him. “People like this keep us going,” he says. “They’re all farmers at heart.”
Robinson explains that he wants diners to feel comfortable, but also not afraid to try new things. Classic Mediterranean dishes are offered, sometimes with an interesting twist, as well as items that one might not immediately associate with traditional Italian cooking.
He mentions a fall menu favorite: toasted focaccia topped with seared duck breast and foie gras, drizzled with smoked cherry and duck jus sauce, finished with sous vide carrots and microgreens. Then, he motions to a staple: a swirl of bucatini topped with enormous meatballs with sliced garlic and Parmesan. “We want to expose people to new flavors,” he says. “On the other hand, who doesn’t like spaghetti and meatballs? The difference is everything is made here.”
Make no mistake, the Calderones' dream of opening a wine bar never disappeared; it simply subsided for a while. Following a successful six months, Tony says they’re excited to open a haven for wine connoisseurs in their basement in the not-too-distant future. “York City citizens have been there with open arms,” he says. “I’m just grateful to be part of this.”
Tutoni’s | 108 N. George St., York | www.tutonis.com | 717-885-5169
The 2014 Silver Spoons List
This year's 50 Silver Spoon Award-winning restaurants including 2014's new and notable establishments.
1. Andalusia A tapas bar featuring authentic small plates from Spain and Morocco in downtown Carlisle. 2. Annie Bailey's Upscale Irish and internationally inspired fare in a casual, cozy pub atmosphere. 3. Aussie and the Fox This chic King Street hangout brings an Australian-American inspired menu to Lancaster.
4. The Belvedere Inn
An elegant-yet-upbeat downtown Lancaster fave. Go for the grilled Caesar, and stay for the nightlife.
5. Blue Bird Inn
Travel to Cornwall for traditional American dining and an extensive beer selection in a 19th-century building.
6. Blue Heron York's source for authentic French eats.
7. Bricco
Mediterranean flavors interpreted through Pennsylvanian produce in the heart of downtown Harrisburg.
8. Cafe Fresco A hip day-or-night spot on Harrisburg’s Restaurant Row. 9. Cameron Estate Inn Take a pastoral getaway to a Mount Joy B&B and restaurant with fireside dining.
10. Carr's
Regional tastes in an art-inspired setting in the heart of downtown Lancaster’s Central Market District.
11. Char's Tracy Mansion An old favorite in a new location, perched on the bank of the Susquehanna River. 12. Circular A recent renovation makes this Hershey tradition with upscale service and fare worth revisiting. 13. Citronnelle A modern French BYOB in downtown Lancaster serving seasonal ingredients with global flair. 14. Cork & Cap Casual-chic dining in a former cork and bottle cap factory on Lancaster’s historic East side. 15. Devon Seafood + Steak Hip modern dining in the heart of Hershey featuring fresh-everyday seafood. 16. Fenz Fashionably chic, refined comfort food and classics in downtown Lancaster. 17. The Garlic Poet Get farm-fresh and inventive gastropub fare at this New Cumberland fave. 18. General Sutter Inn The cornerstone of downtown Lititz with lodging and fine dining in a beautiful sunroom setting. 19. Gibraltar Mediterranean meets urban Lancaster at this regional favorite for seafood. 20. The Greenfield Restaurant & Bar A Lancaster favorite for lunch, brunch, dinner, jazz and fine wines in a 1780-era farmhouse. 21. Harvest Rustic elegance on the grounds of the historic Hotel Hershey featuring farm-fresh fare. 22. Home 231 Farm-to-table inspired dishes and creative cocktails in midtown Harrisburg. 23. Hunger-N-Thirst Lancaster's hot spot for craft beer and provisions.
24. The Inn at Herr Ridge
A preserved gem of battlefield history in Gettysburg featuring locally-sourced creative cuisine and an award-winning wine list.
25. Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant Freshly brewed beer and upscale pub fare on Lancaster’s College Row.
26. Ironwoods Restaurant
Fresh seafood and American regional cuisine just off the greens at York’s Heritage Hills Golf Resort.
27. John J. Jeffries
Seasonal, sustainable upscale fare in a contemporary former tobacco warehouse in the Lancaster Arts Hotel.
28. The Left Bank
The pioneer of contemporary fine dining in downtown York, always a regional favorite before and after shows at the Strand.
29. Lily's on Main Dine Art Deco style above the historic Ephrata Main Theatre.
30. The Log Cabin
A scenic drive complete with covered “kissing bridge” just five miles north of Lancaster to an 1800-era log cabin offering fine dining classics.
31. Ma(i)son An uber-farm-fresh BYOB on downtown Lancaster’s Gallery Row.
32. Mangia Qui and suba tapas bar
Upscale Italian, Spanish and Brazilian influenced dishes just steps from the Capitol, yet a world away.
33. One Lincoln
History meets modern day at this recently updated fine dining spot on the square of historic Gettysburg.
34. Penn Square Grille
Fresh, contemporary, locally inspired dining in the heart of downtown at the Lancaster Marriott at Penn Square.
35. Porch
Fine dining upstairs, casual bar fare downstairs. Either way, worth the country drive through Lebanon County.
36. Pour A hip haunt on Lancaster’s Gallery Row with seasonal plates and an extensive wine and beer list. 37. The Pressroom Known for its jazz and cozy big booths, on Lancaster’s beautiful Steinman Park.
38. Rubicon
Spinoff of midtown Harrisburg favorites Mangia Qui and suba featuring a creative French-inspired menu.
39. Sidney
Modern American, French-influenced fine dining in a historic East Berlin tavern, which also offers casual fare and live entertainment.
40. Sidney Willoughby Run
An offshoot of Sidney’s original location, presenting flavorful dishes of fresh, local ingredients at the former Gettysburg Country Club.
41. Stock's on 2nd
A newly reinvented version of the former favorite, now an American whiskey bar with a farm-to-fork menu.
42. Stockyard Inn Lancaster’s legendary steakhouse on the former site of historic cattle stockyards. 43. Trattoria Fratelli A regional destination for Italian cuisine tucked away in a Lebabon County neighborhood.
44. Trattoria Piatto
A staple of the downtown Carlisle community featuring authentic Italian fare made with fresh local ingredients.
45. Trevi 5 Italian specialties served at The Hotel Hershey.
46. Victor's
A York neighborhood favorite known for its craft beers and bocce ball league, as well as Italian-inspired fare.
47. York Blue Moon Bistro dining in downtown York with an enclosed courtyard and rotating art gallery.
New and Notable
48. Checkers Bistro
A Lancaster favorite in a new chic warehouse location known for its stellar service and creative specials.
49. Harvest Seasonal Grill & Wine Bar Harrisburg's seasonal farm-to-table eats, all under 500 calories.
50. Tutoni’s
Family-owned eatery featuring Italian classics and inventive Mediterranean fare in the heart of York City.
*Restaurants listed in alphabetical order and in no order of ranking
