Hip to be Circle

A happening getaway to Washington D.C.'s Dupont Circle

February 24, 2012

6:23 AM

Cherry blossoms bloom by the Jefferson Memorial

If you’ve done the typical Washington D.C. museum trip and haven’t thought about it since, there’s a happening vibe waiting to welcome you just off the beaten path

in D.C.’s Dupont Circle. But it wouldn’t be too touristy to check out the cherry blossoms while you’re at it.

Dupont Circle is a hip neighborhood scene that will have you feeling like a local the day you check in. Easy to navigate, the historic neighborhoods that surround the circle are nestled with trendy shops and restaurants, a balance of old architectural charm with chic urban living.

SWANN HOUSE STAY

Upon entering the grand free-standing Swann House mansion, and a grand entrance it is, we were greeted with a fresh, fragrant zing of orange zest in the air and, of course, in person by manager Rick Verkler and innkeeper Ashlie Clark. Clark, in her apron that reads “Martha Stewart,” has been in the kitchen preparing the orange infused wafﬂ e batter for our next morning’s breakfast.

As Clark scurries back to the kitchen, manager and innkeeper Verkler gets us settled into our room, The Blue Sky Suite. Soothing hues of blue abound inside from the walls to the toile accents. The feathertop bed, we ﬁ nd out later, is just heavenly —especially after a relaxing soak in the room’s whirlpool tub. Luxurious gifts like Maribelle Aztec hot chocolate, candles and bath salts are available for purchase to enhance the romance.

Downstairs in the sunroom, over afternoon tea, looking out at trumpet vines that bloom with bright orange ﬂ owers among other ﬂ ora around the mirrored pool and patio area, Verkler describes the history of the Swann House. Dupont Circle, he explains, was developed after the Civil War during the 1870s and 1880s as very wealthy families moved into town, so preserving the historical charm of the area is something that is very important to the success of the neighborhood. “It’s a beautiful walking neighborhood because of the architecture,” says Verkler. Tree-lined streets provide foreground for stately row homes and gorgeous gothic mansions.

The Swann House, like many D.C. properties, has changed ownership many times over the years. The original owner was an artist and architect named Walter Paris. He built the house in 1883 but never moved in, choosing instead the more carefree lifestyle of a traveler and artist. The house played many roles over the years: a backdrop for the wedding of another previous owner, Mrs. Oliver Cromwell, who married E.T. Stotesbury on the premises in 1912 and drew famous attendees such as

President Taft and J.P. Morgan. After World War II, the house, like many mansions in Washington, became a boarding house for returning GIs. Then in 1986, historic preservation of the Romanesque-style mansion began, saving ornate features like the original plaster crown molding, the ﬁreplace mantels and the parquet ﬂoors. The current owners, Richard and Mary Ross, purchased the home in 1989 and turned it into a bed and breakfast in 1997. New renovations are taking place all the time, and the main focus is upkeep and updating rooms to include even more luxurious bathrooms. “It’s all about the bathroom right now,” says Vekler, referring to not only the industry as a whole, but also the beautiful champagne onyx tiles going into a brand new room being added ,which will feature a freestanding whirlpool tub among other elegant appointments.

But the Swann House is not just a romantic retreat for couples; it provides the backdrop for many events and activities. “We’re also a nice, unique stay for business travelers throughout the week,” Verkler conﬁ rms. (Yes,there’s wi-ﬁ .) For an intimate setting, small weddings allow close friends and family to enjoy the whole house for the weekend. “This is really for the mature bride and groom; it becomes a really elegant cocktail party where they [the bride and groom] are the hosts.”

There's a renaissance going on in D.C.

“We do girls’ getaways,” he adds. “They take over the whole house, and we bring in massage therapists [and] celebrity make-up artist Michael Pierce who comes in and does makeovers and pampers the girls.” Choose your own customized package; there’s gourmet champagne breakfasts, in-house yoga, shopping at nearby boutiques—plus cocktails, dinner and dancing at historic jazz clubs where Ella Fitzgerald and Duke Ellington used to play. What more could a girl want? Besides chocolate? You’ll ﬁ nd just that, but so much more, a couple blocks away at Biagio.

EATS & ARTS

The Biagio experience is like stepping into a shop in Italy. Uber-chic uplit shelves of ﬁne chocolates, modern high tables in cocoa-colored wood and stainless pedestals—all to the tune of pulsing beats. A case of gourmet hand-made trufﬂ es makes the perfect gift to yourselves (and friends back home if you’re feeling really nice) to taste there or take back to your room at the Swann House. I suggest both. Indulge in ﬂ avors from plum armagnac to classic and ﬁ g bon bons in between. These trufﬂes are almost too artful to eat: the ancho chili with its glittery orange top, the tanzanie shaped like a dark chocolate gem and the leopard print aged bourbon.

But like mom always said, “dinner ﬁrst,”
and the only question is, “where?”

“We have about 50 restaurants within a three-block radius,” Verkler points out. “One we love: Al Crostino. And there’s a wonderful upscale Thai restaurant called

The Regent.” Restaurants within a 15-minute walking distance span the globe from Mediterranean (there’s Rosemary’s Thyme) to Brazilian (Grill from Ipanema).

We did tapas Korean-style at Mandu on 18th Street for a late afternoon start to the evening, which progressed to an adorable hole-in-the-wall with upscale innovative international cuisine at moderate prices called Little Fountain Cafe, located in the heart of Adams Morgan, just up on the corner of Belmont Road and 18th Street. If you go, there’s only one garden table out front—it’s darling—so call ahead.

“There’s a renaissance going on in D.C.,” says Verkler, who moved there from New York, having been spoiled by the restaurant scene there. He says he is excited about what’s going on in ﬁ ne dining, as ﬁve star restaurants attract big name chefs to the area. Eric Ziebold, the former sous chef of Thomas Keller’s famed French Laundry in California, left to open CityZen inside D.C.’s Mandarin Oriental. Eric Ripert of New York’s Le Bernadine opened Westend Bistro in November 2007. Renowned chef Michel Richard’s Citronelle now has a more casual sister restaurant, Central Michel Richard, where you can try the famous-among-foodies lobster burger. Borrowing a concept popular with trendy New York restaurants, Central Michel Richard and more casual restaurants offer unique, high-style cuisine at affordable prices in a hip, as opposed to formal, atmosphere.

The D.C. art scene is also impressive. If you haven’t done the National Gallery of Art, the Corcoran and the Smithsonian, do—but if you’re looking for something off the beaten path, again, Dupont Circle is the place to be. There’s the Hillwood Museum and Gardens, a gorgeous estate owned by the heiress to the Post Cereal fortune, that is now home to a Russian collection of treasures like Faberge eggs and Katherine the Great’s wedding crown. And don’t miss The Phillips Collection. Also formerly a residence, “America’s ﬁrst museum of modern art” is home to paintings by masters such as Manet, Matisse, Mondrian, O’Keeffe, Picasso and more.

THE RESIDENT “MARTHA”

Back at the Swann House for breakfast, more gourmet gastronomic delights await. Though she’s not a formally trained chef, “She’s our little Martha Stewart,” says Verkler, referring to Clark, who wears many hats around the mansion, including “chef.”

Breakfast in the cheery, pink dining room includes an elegant spread of homemade granola, organic yogurt, fresh fruit and more atop a massive, impressive antique sideboard. Clark’s creations vary from orange croissant French toast and Sunday morning coffee cake to enchilada strata and breakfast kabobs. Lemon, cranberry and walnut scones and poppy seed lime mufﬁns are just a couple of her other favorites—all homemade, of course. We had the pleasure of a breakfast indulgence: orange wafﬂes with dark chocolate Kahlua sauce and brown-sugared bacon. Small tables situated by windows look out over lovely landscaping and passers-by on the bustling neighborhood sidewalks. Or chat with other guests at the large table beneath a chandelier. “You hear all kinds of languages around the table here,” says Verkler of the many world travelers who come to stay at the Swann House. “Everybody says that it feels just like home [here],” adds Clark. “We try to welcome our guests with a certainty that we’re going to take care of them. I love putting a smile on their face everyday.” Verkler explains, “People will talk about the place, the rooms, but the number one thing they rave about is the staff and the service.” And even though they both only live a few blocks away, you get the sense that innkeepers Verkler and Clark are a part of the mansion, and they’ve opened up their home and their neighborhood to share. “This is very much a ‘locals’ neighborhood,” says Verkler, “Though we’re only a mile away from the White House, we feel like we’re a world away.”

PLANNING YOUR STAY…

Swann House
Historic Dupont Circle Inn.
1808 New Hampshire Ave., NW
Washington, DC 20009
202-265-4414
www.swannhouse.com

“OFF-THE-BEATEN-PATH” PLACES TO CHECK OUT:

Al Crostino
Authentic Italian restaurant and wine bar.
1324 U Street, NW
Washington, DC
202-797-0523
www.alcrostino.com

Biagio Fine Chocolate
Hip chocolate shoppe where the candy is fashionable & ﬂavorful.
1904 18th Street, NW
Washington, DC
202-328-1506
www.biagiochocolate.com

Little Fountain Cafe
A cozy, hole-in-the-wall cafe with an affordable ﬁne dining menu.
2339 18th Street, NW
Washington, DC
202-462-8100
www.littlefountaincafe.com

Mandu
Korean cusine in mod atmosphere. Steps away from the Swann House.
1805 18th Street, NW
Washington, DC
202-588-1540
www.mandudc.com

The Hillwood Estate & Gardens
4155 Linnean Avenue, NW
Washington, DC
202-686-5807
www.hillwoodmuseum.org

The Phillips Collection
Museum of Modern Art
1600 21st Street, NW
Washington, DC
202-387-2151
www.phillipscollection.org

The Regent
Thai cuisine, taken up a notch.
1910 18th Street, NW
Washington, DC
202-232-1781
www.regentthai.com