Tourists and Hershey natives alike have been flocking to Irv’s Pub since its opening in March. A concept of owners Jim and Cindy Hess for several years, this new American cuisine restaurant replaces the couple’s former catering operation, Events Etc., and provides an evening alternative for lovers of sister restaurant and across-the-street neighbor The Hershey Pantry and Desserts, Etc.
The exterior is somewhat unassuming, but step inside for a cozy yet modern décor with rustic accents like a ceramic bull’s head above the bar, wire lighting fixtures, and a massive wooden wall collage. Opposite the bar, a lounge provides less formal seating—buttery leather furniture and bright modern art—than the dark, romantic lighting of the dining area, where deep wooden tables are accented by vibrant stripes of chartreuse on banquettes and chairs.
The menu is modern comfort, matching the rustic chic decor, filling a gap between high-end dining and the casual comfort of a sports bar.
For instance, one of the restaurant’s most popular dishes is the deviled eggs, served with fried Chesapeake oysters, brown sugar bacon, and smoked hot paprika. The perfectly crisped oysters take this picnic classic over the top. A touch of sweetness from the bacon combines perfectly with the light heat from the paprika.
Another crowd pleaser is the clams, shrimp and mussels, a classic done well with andouille sausage, and “blue ribbon beer broth,” served with wedges of garlic bread. The tater tot nachos rank high for diners as well, loaded with cheddar, bacon, pickled jalapeños, green onions, and sour cream.
Irv’s Pub offers a handful of interesting yet approachable sandwiches as well. A fish sandwich disguised as a Reuben awes with salmon pastrami, witbier braised sauerkraut, Russian dressing and gruyere between two slices of marble rye. The sauerkraut is braised in-house with a witbier. This delicious combination is impressive and unique.
Choose from fries or a salad to accompany the sandwich, but you’ll want the hand-cut French fries brined in beer, whatever IPA is on tap at the time. The IPA fries also are available as a “small plate” and served with sea salt, ketchup, and malt vinegar mayonnaise.
For entrees, contrasting flavors and textures create interesting, impactful dishes that please the palate. The roasted chicken breast is served with a tomato and goat cheese ravioli with soffritto and smoked bacon, adding a salty component to creamy ravioli and crunchy vegetables.
Irv’s Pub’s bar area is hip, a brick-fronted bar with metal stools, and the tap list matches the demand for craft beer. Local brewery Tröegs Independent Brewery is represented with several taps, including recent releases, and seasonal offerings from a variety of breweries appear standard, creating an ever-changing draft selection. Irv’s Pub also always features one cask beer. Powerhouse breweries like Stone, Dogfish Head, and Oskar Blues-as well as Pennsylvania-based brewers like Yards, Otto’s, and, again, Tröegs-have a selection of year-round offerings available in bottles. Fruit beers, classic imports and domestic bottles also are available, as well as “Coors Original Shorties,” filed under “Hipster.”
Despite the attention to craft beer, about 55 percent of the restaurant's alcohol sales come from spirits over brews. They offer an original cocktail menu as well as three barrel-aged versions.
The top-selling cocktail is called “Mommy’s Medicine.” It features vanilla-pineapple infused tequila, Bauchant, and house sours. Mule lovers will dig the Donkey Show, which combines X-Rated Blood Orange, Patron Citronage, fresh lime and ginger beer. The aptly-named Beetlejuice features black cherry cider, muddled citrus, elderflower liqueur, and beet-infused gin. The Old School Manhattan is another favorite, a blend of Bulleit Rye; sweet vermouth; and orange, fennel, and Angostura bitters, left to age in a barrel.
Irv’s also offers a rotating selection of red, white, and sparkling wines by the glass and bottle.
Not strictly a dinner destination, Irv’s Pub hosts free live music every Thursday evening, a great opportunity to dive into bar snacks like the Scotch duck egg or share a plate of IPA fries alongside a cool craft beer or handmade cocktail. Or stop in during “Social Hour” from 4 to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday for discount cocktails and small plates. Irv’s Pub also serves Sunday brunch starting at noon.
Irv’s Pub / 814 E. Chocolate Ave., Hershey www.irvspub.com / 717-533-7505
By Sara Bozich / Photography by Donovan Roberts Witmer