“’Why Lancaster?’ people ask us,” says Cedric Barberet, owner and pastry chef of Barberet Bistro and Bakery.
Big cities have concepts and pastries like what they’re serving, but here, “It makes us unique,” states Barberet.
From France to Florida, Philadelphia and now Lancaster, the Barberets, Cedric and wife Estelle, have found their niche and a new place to call home.
Take a trip to Paris à la Lancaster when you step inside Barberet Bistro and Bakery. Four years in the making, the renovated building now dubbed 26 East houses a space that’s a world away.
Barberet Bistro and Bakery occupies the first floor. Above, a separate entity called Altana features a bar and lounge as well as a rooftop bar open during seasonal months.
The Bakery
Modern and authentic, Barberet emulates the chicest bakeries in Paris, the owners claim.
“The bakery is truly my vision of a Parisian bakery,” says Barberet, “like a jewelry store” for his creations.
Lit up on display like sparkling treasures inside cases are éclairs, a rainbow of macarons with unique flavors like bergamot and hibiscus, Madeleines, tarts, truffles and lovely little cakes (almost) too beautiful to eat.
Patrons grab a croissant, coffee and a stool at the small bar between the bakery and bistro. Later, locals stop in for lunch on the go such as quiche Lorraine or Pain Bagnat: Preserved tuna, lettuce, tomatoes, hard-boiled egg and black olives on a baguette.
Central PA is now fortunate enough to taste the works of the same pastry chef who created Donald Trump’s five-foot-high Grand Marnier chiffon wedding cake. Barberet then worked at Trump’s Mar-a-Lago in Palm Beach. Now Susquehanna Valley couples can enjoy one of Barbaret’s traditional French Croquembouche or fondant wedding cakes.
Pastries are the main focus of the business and Barberet’s background. He graduated from Patisserie Chereau in France and has over 25 years of experience ranging from the M Resort and Spa in Las Vegas to Philadelphia’s famed Le Bec Fin.
Beignets oozing with apple sauce, candied chestnuts and other uniquely found delights await inside. It's a kid-in-a-candy-store experience for your sweet tooth.
The Bistro
The bistro idea came a little later, Barberet explains. “It was just going to be a wine bar with a little food and evolved into a full menu." They brought on executive chef Tyler Boell, who cut his teeth at renowned restaurants like Mario Batali’s Del Postro in New York City as well as Le Bec Fin.
The result: “French casual comfort food with a modern twist,” says Barberet. “We want to keep its identity,” says Estelle Barberet, referring to the menu development and the preparation of each dish.
While the ingredients like meats and cheeses are high end, and everything from pastas to jams are painstakingly homemade, Barberet insists, “We are definitely not fine dining.”
Take the authentic French onion soup, Soupe a L'Oignon. “It takes six hours for the chefs to roast the onions,” Estelle explains. Beef jus, bread and Gruyere complete this seemingly simple menu item. The flavor is superb. Thin broth packs the panache of a Sunday pot roast that has been cooking all day. Similarly, the Beef Bourguignon (French beef stew made with Burgundy wine) simmers 48 hours before being served.
Of course, the Prince Edward Island mussels, herbs, garlic, white wine and pommes frites (or French fries) that make up the popular Moule Frites dish, are big crowd pleasers, as is the Steak Frites plate.
A testament to its taste, the Croque Monsieur made Facebook fame when the bistro first opened. Gourmet ham and Guyere sandwich topped with a fried egg and creamy Bechamel sauce, yes please.
Surprisingly, Barbaret adds, the foie gras is a best seller. Profiteroles are the preferred dessert among patrons.
The stylish bistro designed by David Lyall of David Lyall Home & Design seats about 50. Tables line the far wall, which is uniquely paneled with three quarters of wainscoting topped with metallic wallpaper. The tables are close together like New York City restaurants and European cafes, making it easy to converse with other diners. The metallic banquette invites patrons to linger.
At the table next to us, ladies lunching ooh and ahh over the presentation of their plates.
“Maybe it’s because of my background and [bistro chef] Tyler’s background,” coupled with Lyall’s design that looks like a New York City restaurant, explains Barberet, that makes people “expect a little more when they walk into the bakery and the bistro.”
“We are not trying to define ourselves,”says Barberet.
