Photography by Donovan Roberts Witmer
Honest. If there’s one word that emerges over and over again as executive chef Joe Mishler describes The Mill, that’s it. Old school. Back to the basics. Simplicity. These are some of terms he uses to define the style of the restaurant, but none match as nicely as this one: “Honesty is our big word,” he says. “It’s what we do here.”
The expansive Hershey restaurant, home to the Curry Feed Mill in the early 1900s, is now producing much higher-class fare in the same space, and, as Mishler mentions, every dish is made from scratch. “That’s the way things were done when this building was first built,” he explains. And in the two-year process of turning a once abandoned mill into a full-scale fine dining establishment, keeping all elements of the restaurant authentic to the building has proved to be of utmost importance to Mishler and co-owners Bill Delinsky and Jim Rafferty. “We even matched the food to the building,” he says.
Everything about the restaurant’s updated interior feels right for the historic, rustic nature of the space. Wood textures abound, and nearly all of the newly added elements were crafted from
reclaimed lumber of the original structure. Walls of rough planks separate the entrance from the dining area. A hulking chef’s table sits adjacent to the main-level bar, its sturdy legs and top fashioned from hemlock beams gleaned the renovation of the floor above. The building’s four-story staircase, lined with pressed copper tiles and accented by intricate iron spindles, was also custom built from the mill’s repurposed wood.
Some decorative elements of the space date back to the early twentieth century, like the large Curry's sign that sits just below the exposed beams of the third level. The top-floor mezzanine is painted the same shade of sky blue that covered the mill’s original plank walls. On the other hand, new additions fit seamlessly, yet give a nod to the present day. Immense wood beams, sawn from trees that would now be three hundred years old, draw the eye up to oversized clear glass pendants that remind one of barn lights in an industrial era past.
It would make sense for The Mill to tout a farm-to-table theme, as there are so many agricultural elements at play, but Mishler says that the restaurant didn’t want to be limited in that way. “Being farm fresh is part of staying honest,” he says. “But if we’re being honest, if we used just local produce, we’d be serving only potatoes in the middle of winter.” Instead, Mishler sources the best and the freshest ingredients and serves them to regional residents, and he always does it from his self-defined “scratch kitchen.” Whether it’s local produce, oysters from the Chesapeake Bay, certified Angus beef, Alaskan salmon, or the eatery’s house-smoked and -cured meats, patrons can be sure that they’re getting a quality product that is carefully selected with the diner in mind.
When browsing the menu, expect to see a variety of familiar yet multi-cultural flavors. “We are true American cuisine,” Mishler says. “That’s not hot dogs, mac-and-cheese, and apple pie. America is a melting pot; it’s Pennsylvania Dutch, it’s Italian.” Mishler, a Hershey-born-and-raised chef, mentions that his great-grandfather likely ended his immigration journey from Italy to America at the railroad station behind the restaurant. Gentle rumbling of the passing trains is an everyday reminder of that heritage, one that is rich with the honest, simple flavors of his Nonna’s garden-fresh cooking. Dishes like the house-pulled mozzarella with heirloom tomato and basil, or pesto radiatore with shrimp and mushroom, pay homage to the Italian roots of many locals. Other staples from distinctly different cultures, like the fried chicken and waffle or the Ahi tuna noodle bowl, also grace the list of offerings.
Of course Mishler, who spent the past five years as the executive chef of the neighboring Devon Seafood + Steak, knows a thing or two about quality seafood, and that knowledge was not neglected when planning the menu for The Mill. Try the spring translation of the seared sea scallops: plump, moist, ultra-fresh scallops nestled in a bed of sweet pea risotto, topped with a shaved fennel and orange salad, and garnished with mint-infused oil.
Mishler’s sous chef Nick Martino, known affectionately around the restaurant as “Uncle Pig,” has put personal interest in the restaurant’s authentic, wood-smoked barbecue dishes. “I’ve taken a big hand in the bacon,” he explains, referring to a popular small plate on the menu. The “house bacon,” as it’s called, is made of thick cuts of pork that are cured and smoked on the premises with a blend of apple, cherry, and oak woods. The slices are then stacked on a swipe of lemon dijonnaise and served with a mound of apple-carrot slaw, fresh flavors that “brighten” the rich bacon, Martino says. For more freshness, pair with the limoncello martini mixed with organic limoncello, citron vodka, and house-made lemonade.
Trust us: leave room for dessert. Pastry chef Daria Astorino is concocting a particularly delectable dish this spring, a decadent lemon orange curd pie with swirls of piped meringue, toasted to perfection. Dots of chocolate fudge sauce and fresh blackberries complete the unique flavor combination, as would a sip of Grand Marnier and a view from the mezzanine of this new Hershey foodie favorite.
The Mill / 810 Old W. Chocolate Ave., Hershey / www.themillinhershey.com / 717-256-9965
Insider tip: Be on the lookout for The Mill’s upcoming patio renovations, as well as a spring schedule of wine and whiskey dinners.
