Photography by Donovan Roberts Witmer
In a word, magnifique. It’s the best way to describe the third installment of the North Street restaurant trilogy. You’re likely familiar with Mangia Qui and its sequel Suba, offering some of Harrisburg’s finest cuisine of the Italian and Spanish persuasions, respectively. “This rounded off western Europe,” says chef and owner Qui Qui Musarra of the newest restaurant, Rubicon. “France, Spain, and Italy.”
Rubicon’s nods to France in the interior design are apparent, but not overt. Warm wooden parquet flooring leads you to a large horseshoe-shaped bar, the focal point of the first floor. The pewter countertops, gently forming their patina, are capped at one end by slabs of carerra marble—both materials that add to the richness and authenticity of the space. Classic bistro tables with their ornate iron legs line the room’s perimeter, accompanied by Louis XVI chairs upholstered in rich burgundy leather accented with neat rows of brass nail trim. Just past the entrance, a pressed tin ceiling hangs above large light-filled glass windowpanes with delicate Art Deco border.
The references to old-world France are tasteful, minimal even. Musarra explains that it was never her intention to create a “period” space. “My mother had a good eye for mixing the old with the new,” she says. Evidently, that quality was passed on, considering the eclectic nature of Rubicon’s design, which was entirely concocted by Musarra and her business partners Staci Basore and Elide Hower.
In fact, some aspects of the restaurant’s interior feel quite contemporary. The second floor is one example. Not quite a floor at all, the second level of the dining area is more aptly described as a balcony: a gigantic rounded-rectangle opening allows diners to peer down upon the bar and the hustle and bustle of its patrons. The bar’s rounded edges perfectly mimic the curves of the balcony above, adding continuity. Second-story diners are eye level with a staggered arrangement of four colossal chandeliers, caged in orbs of iron, dripping with crystals. Glance in the opposite direction to see the same exquisite view of the Capitol that is offered by the neighboring Mangia Qui and Suba.
The French influence on the menu, however, is far more noticeable. French words and terms spatter the lists of entrees and hors d’oeuvres. Musarra finds that incorporating classic French flavors and techniques in all of the dishes offered creates cohesion and moves the concept forward. “You have to have something to weave it all together,” she explains. Yet the offerings are far from stuffy. “It’s very approachable,” she says. “You don’t have to speak French to eat here.”
Start your meal with the saumon au vieux carre to see how Musarra puts her own spin on classic French cuisine. In this dish, salmon is cured in Vieux Carre absinthe (an unequivocally French liqueur), then thin-sliced and topped with ancho chili sauce, house-made dijonnaise, Belgian white endive, and matchsticks of granny smith apple. Or, for a more home-style interpretation of the theme, opt for le coq au vin, a slow-cooked, petite chicken served with a dribble of decadent red wine sauce and a simple garden medley.
The French inspiration carries all the way through to the final course. Co-owner and resident pastry chef for all three restaurants, Elide Hower, delights in desserts that leave an impression even after the meal. Her baked Alaska, in all of its flaming meringue glory, does not disappoint. Neither do her expertly hand-crafted macarons, traditional French cookies with crisp pastel shells that give way to soft, decadent insides.
Of course, Rubicon is an ideal spot to stop for a sip, no reservation required. During her years of experience at Suba, bar manager Ashlyn Hawkins learned how highly the minds behind this Harrisburg restaurant empire regard a good drink. It goes without saying that much consideration and creativity goes into crafting each of her seasonal cocktail menus. Classic liqueurs like the aforementioned absinthe, as well as chartreuse and cognac, appear frequently in the mixtures.
Hawkins recommends the pomme de Paris, a concoction of Calvados VSOP, Antica Sweet Vermouth, cinnamon saffron syrup, whiskey bitters, egg white, apple juice, and lemon foam. The result is a beverage with a subtle hint of the harvest, not sweet, but with a boozy kick. Or peer down the list of champagne offerings, a specialty of the restaurant.
This year marks fourteen years in business for Mangia Qui and eight for Suba; Rubicon will celebrate its first anniversary this coming fall. What’s next for this ever-growing group? “You never know,” says Musarra. “But I think I’ll be staying here.”
Rubicon / 270 North St., Harrisburg / www.rubiconhbg.com / 717-317-9027
