Everything old is new again, especially in Lancaster’s first block of Chestnut Street. That’s where you’ll find The Imperial, a restaurant revitalizing its historical and once-notorious location.
Described as a long-standing “eyesore” by real estate developer and co-owner John Meeder, The Imperial and its adjoining Holiday Inn Lancaster stand on the corner of Chestnut and Queen Streets. It’s a fitting intersection, since many describe the renovated property as a long-awaited crown jewel missing from Lancaster’s downtown landscape, defined by the parallel-running Prince, Queen and Duke Streets.
“It’s such a historically rich area, and this project brings the area back to life,” says Josh Rinier, 32, marketing director and lifelong Lancaster resident. “This used to be the epicenter of the city because of the train station originally located across the street. It’s still an epicenter today—a reestablished town center.”
The site also has a historical claim to fame as the longest-operating hotel site in Lancaster. Originally known as The Caldwell House in the late 1700s, the hotel changed names, burned down, was reincarnated, and then was partially boarded up over the years. One name from its colorful past—The Imperial—resonated with current owners Meeder and Sam Wilsker, along with Noelle Turco, the artist hired to design the renovated space.
“The name ‘The Imperial’ started me on the vision,” says Turco, 49, owner of Red House Design Company. “It’s regal, with touches like the chandelier…yet approachable. There’s no pretense because we want everyone to feel welcome.”
Turco hand-painted 50 bright, bold works of art for the new space and outfitted it with more than 30 eclectic light fixtures. The warm yellow and orange interior is tempered with tones of olive green and peacock blue. Booths designed to simulate train caboose cars pay homage to the city’s former train station across the street, now occupied by the Federal Tap House.
History is intertwined with graphic design and modern touches: Turco hand-painted pops of color on historical black-and-white photos depicting Lancaster scenes. Four presidents visited the property, including Abraham Lincoln in 1861. Enlarged Sandborn maps are framed, detailing city blocks and property owners circa 1912.
Traditional and modern tastes also blend on The Imperial’s menu.
Rather than labeling items under traditional appetizer and entrée categories, executive chef Anthony Davis divides menu offerings by soup, on bread, water (seafood), land and air (chicken, burgers, steak), and vegetables.
We started in the water category by sampling the crispy fried shrimp, noted on the menu as a dish that could serve as a shared appetizer. It blends a black bean ragout base with poblano peppers and the surprisingly bright notes of passion fruit sauce, supporting tender shrimp atop.
The twice-cooked pork belly, a generous entrée, includes perfectly prepared pork accompanied by Davis’ playful modern interpretation of traditional peas and carrots. First, there’s a pea puree dotted with roasted rainbow carrots. The plate also includes a unique and delicious carrot flan garnished with crispy carrot strips.
Davis is especially proud of The Imperial’s house-made ricotta. All pastries are also made in-house, and the summer menu is infused with the flavors of watermelon and peaches.
“We are blessed to be a block and a half from Central Market,” says Davis. “We’re currently working with local providers from five different market stands.”
Davis, 29, says he’s been “competitive” about his career from a young age. “I got into the food industry as a dishwasher at 15, was cooking full-time at 16, [was] a supervisor at 17, graduated high school early, then graduated from culinary school and was working at a private resort in Florida by the age of 19,” he recalls.
After working in California, Davis returned to his native Pennsylvania at the age of 22 and made the rounds in Lancaster restaurants—The Belvedere Inn, Carr’s Restaurant, Pour, and most recently York’s Heritage Hills Golf Resort.
He says now that he has a family including a young daughter, he’s happy to establish a professional home at The Imperial.
In addition to breakfast, lunch, and dinner, The Imperial offers Sunday brunch, a bar menu, and vegan specials. It’s a stop on the Downtown Lancaster Food Tour, recently hosted Lancaster VegFest’s after party, and participated in Lancaster Vegan Restaurant Week.
When people walk through The Imperial’s doors, general manager David Gannett often hears their reactions. “People can’t believe how much the place has changed, and they often say, ‘We are so glad someone finally had the courage to take on this corner and this building.’ People are so appreciative.”
“We’ve created a good building here,” says Meeder. “Now we’re creating good business.”
The Imperial
26 E. Chestnut St., Lancaster, PA
theimperialrestaurant.com / 717-399-4040