On a bluff overlooking the Chesapeake Bay stands a stately mansion, a reminder of the past with an invitation to the present.
Built in 1938 with award-winning Georgian architectural detail for Russell D’Oench and his family, the private residence boasted over twelve thousand square feet of living space including twenty-six rooms, nine fireplaces, and eight baths. The manor would later be the grounds for entertaining prestigious guests, like Ernest Hemingway and Jack Kennedy, under the ownership of Frank Russell, who bought the manor in 1946 and trandformed the property into the Great Oak Farm and Lodge. By the 1970s, there was an eighteen-hole golf course, a four-star restaurant, horse riding, goose and duck hunting, a fleet of boats including a 107-foot yacht, and a private airport for guests’ use.
But hard economic times caused Russell to auction off the property after he had tried to keep his dream alive by doing anything he could, including having many of the property’s (and neighboring properties') mature black walnut trees cut down, much to his neighbors’ dismay. Nine of the eighteen holes on the golf course were turned into cash crop fields, but nine remain today.
These days, guests enjoy a simpler stay, paddling around the bay in the canoe on site or docking their own boats at the nearby Great Oak Landing Marina, which is just a walk away from the manor. A private beachfront below the bluff provides a welcomed respite from the workweek, feeling a world away as the bay waves lap the sandy shore.
Guests can stay secluded or join in the never-ending party at neighboring Jellyfish Joel’s, a tropical tiki bar just a walk around the corner from the manor’s beachfront property.
Drawn in by a classic circular white pebble driveway, the manor stands in grand welcoming. We were warmly greeted by innkeeper and wedding planner for the property Jennifer Donisi, who was brought on board to run the place after its most recent purchase and restoration in 2011. We were then shown to our room, the historically appointed Marmaduke, with its waterfront and sunset view, king size bed, and luxurious bath.
Watching the sunset from the Adirondack chairs overlooking the bluff with a picnic for two was not a bad view either. In fact, it was one of the most memorable sunsets my husband and I have ever seen. Salmon colored sunlight glistened on the bay while we enjoyed cheese and crackers, meats and wine, watching the glowing orb dip beneath the bluff to the sound of crickets and cicadas in concert.
The next morning, breakfast was served for guests to enjoy in the Bayside Dining Room or on the patio, overlooking the grounds' expansive lawn surrounded by towering oak and walnut trees and the bay below. Open spaces like the conservatory (which is a popular, beautiful backdrop for weddings and events), music room, library, and sunroom beckon lounging and lazing.
That afternoon, we relaxed by the pool at Great Oak Landing Marina, overlooking the bay and docked boats, soaking up the warm sunshine and the last few hours of our romantic retreat.
Plan your getaway:
Great Oak Manor 10568 Cliff Rd., Chestertown, MD 410-778-5943 / www.greatoakmd.com
If you go:
Nearby downtown Chestertown on Maryland’s upper eastern shore offers history and eighteenth- century architecture, shopping, and an array of dining options. Learn more at www.kentcounty.com.
Food lovers
We chose to grab a bite and a beverage to start our romantic weekend in elegance and style at the Imperial Hotel (www.imperialchestertown.com), which includes period furnishings in its restaurant, bar, and garden courtyard as well as lodging in century-old grand fashion. Insider tip: The Kitchen at the Imperial hosts a glorious bloody Mary bar and brunch. Or try the champagne with a candied hibiscus flower for something different. Lunch and dinner are served as well.
History buffs
The Geddes-Piper House hosts a free History Happy Hour with wine, cheese, and discussion on First Fridays from 4 to 6 p.m. The Museum is open Tuesday through Friday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Saturdays May through October from 1 to 4 p.m. More info at www.kentcountyhistory.org.
Shopping
March through December, the Chestertown Farmers’ Market is bustling from 8 a.m. to 12 p.m. with home grown produce, flowers, and plants, as well as handcrafted works of local artisans. www.chestertownfarmersmarket.net You’ll also find numerous gift shops and antique stores up and down the main streets of High and Cross Streets. Find more info at www.destinationmainstreets.com/maryland/chestertown.php
The Great Outdoors
The Eastern Neck Wildlife Refuge in nearby Rock Hall is a popular place for bike riding on four miles of paved roads. Seven different walking trails offer views of the bay, the Chester River, a marsh, and wildlife including over 240 species of birds, eighteen species of mammals, and hundreds of butterflies. During winter, tundra swans visit the surrounding waterways. Hunting, fishing, and photography are just a few of the other activities many enjoy. Plan your visit at www.fws.gov/refuge/Eastern_Neck.
Text and photography by Keely Childers Heany