Hit the Road
Our fall road trip started with an escape to nature to unwind from the grind surrounded by the endless beauty and peace of Shenandoah National Park. Perched upon the top of a mountain, we camped for three nights (yes, I survived!) in what’s known as Big Meadows (literally vast flat meadows atop the mountain range where we heard part of Evan Almighty was filmed).
Wilderness Eats
We enjoyed evenings by a blazing fire beneath a sparkling, star-filled sky and peaceful mornings watching the sun work its way up the mountain through changing colored trees. In between, we had a mix of campsite cooking like faro risotto with cremini mushrooms and kale. Word on the web was we had to try the “mile high blackberry pie” at one of the park’s lodges (Skyland Lodge or Big Meadows–both serve mostly the same menus, although Skyland offers a few more gourmet dishes). At Skyland, we warmed up with local turkey pot pie, blackberry cobbler and, of course, the “mile high blackberry pie,” which is actually blackberry ice cream on a graham cracker crust topped with meringue. Horseback riding through tree-lined trails was another highlight of our time at Shenandoah. In the evenings, both lodges offer live entertainment–we strolled from our campsite to Big Meadows and caught some tunes by North Carolina native Lee Blanton, which was a good ole time!
Hiking the Ole A.T.
You can’t go to Shenandoah National Park without at least stepping a foot on the famed Appalachian Trail–we hiked the Lewis Falls Trail–which conveniently connected our campsite to an 81 foot waterfall (a pretty intense rocky hike of about 3.5 miles, but well worth emerging from forest to breathtaking mountain top views).
Alas, three nights in the woods was enough for this glam gal, and it was time to pack up and head out for part two of our trip, celebrating our anniversary.
The Spirit of VA
Before heading to Clifton Inn, we decided to capture the “spirit(s)” of Virginia—literally—by checking out one of its most reputable wineries, Veritas Vineyards in Afton. A stunning estate nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountain Valley, Veritas offers sweeping views of the vineyards amid a foliage filled mountain backdrop, where we sipped sophisticated wines in an elegantly appointed tasting room with the refined southern rustic charm of Virginia. If you’ve not been to the area, it’s like being in a perpetual Polo ad–Ralph Lauren model lookalikes and estates everywhere. Every “driveway” has its own name, like Fox Run Estate, there are rolling hills of meadows and horse fences, and all is dotted with historic mansions.
Brew Ridge Trail
Virginia is known for its wineries, but just as the craft beer scene has burgeoned in other parts of the country, the Blue Ridge Mountain area is no exception. We were very excited to check out the new-to-the-area “Brew Ridge Trail,” connecting the dots of five local breweries.
Our first stop was Wild Wolf Brewing Company (with a brand new restaurant and brew facility that recently opened). Next we headed down Route 151 about four miles to Devil’s Backbone (the name one of Virginia’s great explorers gave the Blue Ridge Mountains). The bones of the building, a spectacular Arts and Crafts lodge style brewery and restaurant, made from local materials like wood from tobacco, dairy and horse barns; local riverbed stones and locally made iron chandeliers and sconces. Most notable, though, is the wildlife that adorns the walls. If you go, the house-smoked selections are the way to order.
But back to the beer, it was the Stringduster Pale Ale for me, a honey colored multi grain ale perfect for autumn, and a Belgian inspired Five Apostles Saison with a fruity, spicy finish for my husband. From there, we headed out to Blue Ridge Brewery, which makes a pretty decent beer too; I enjoyed a nice pumpkin ale while my husband sipped a palatable ESB. While in Charlottesville, we tried another brew on the trail, Starr Hill Brewery’s Jomo, a surprisingly complex pilsner that was perfect on a warm fall day. South Street Brewery is another stop on the trail right in Charlottesville to which, alas, we did not make it between all the other brews, touring, shopping and dining–there is so much to see and do in and around Charlottesville!
Luxury at Last
Charlottesville, Virginia, is a natural fit for Central Pennsylvanians in that our regions share such rich histories, and Clifton Inn, where we stayed during our visit, is no exception. Built in 1799 as part of the Monticello Estate (be sure to visit Monticello, the home of Thomas Jefferson, and one of only 21 of UNESCO’s World Heritage sites in the US and 936 in the world), Clifton Inn is part of the world-renowned Relais and Chateau properties, situated on 100 acres of woods, including a lovely lake, where you can play or relax with horseshoes and clay tennis courts or the peaceful waterfall-edged pool and hot tub.
With only 17 rooms, the inn is small enough to enjoy an intimate experience, yet large enough to roam. We stayed in the Thomas Mann Randolph room, which looks over the front of the property where we watched the sunrise over the lake in the morning, and rested peacefully in a comfy king sized bed surrounded by pink tulip wallpaper and interesting antiques. We enjoyed crisp white linens, robes and a fresh white tiled bathroom in an alcove off the room featuring Molton Brown toiletries and fine French fixtures; these included a rain head shower with side sprays and a claw foot tub for soaking up some relaxation. At night, turn down service includes a couple of the inn’s reputable cookies (there’s a jar in the kitchen where guests can help themselves to a midnight snack) as well as the next day’s weather forecast to help plan your stay.
The Tastes
One of the most notable things about Clifton Inn is the dining experience (which is open to the public). The menu reads like a wine list, with courses named Delicate, Light, Full Bodied, Robust and Dessert, followed by a selection of Virginia artisanal cheeses. You choose how your meal experience is structured: four courses for $62; five for $76; the chef’s seasonal tasting menu $100; or somewhere in between. The staff is very friendly and accommodating, so even if you’ve never dined in this manner before, there’s nothing intimidating–just an eating adventure!
We had the pleasure of dining at the Chef’s Table in the kitchen, observing the mad scientist chefs who create the very inventive dishes on the menu. A lit up marble slab bar overlooked the line where they worked and chatted with us about their passion for local foods and cooking.
To start, we were offered some freshly fried pork rinds seasoned with chunks of salt, followed by the actual amuse bouche–three small tastes–including a beet apple soup sprinkled with salty, spicy sumac, chick pea fries and a mini Caprese salad. Next I enjoyed Kaboucha squash soup with chesnuts, pickled apples and brown butter powder, the beginning of my love affair with the brown butter dishes at Clifton. My husband had the chilled jumbo lump crab with aloe, pickled ginger, citrus and shirodashi. I then had to try this “dirt salad” they were serving up–one, out of interest, and two, because of all the prep work they put into this single dish, with something like 20 ingredients out on the counter to make it! Bitter vegetables like radishes and baby turnips were balanced by a somewhat sweet black cocoa powder (the dirt)–a complex and tasty dish. My husband enjoyed seared sea scallops with shitakes, corn, green tomato relish and ginger broth. We had two dishes from this light menu. Next we enjoyed a fancy sort of French onion soup-like dish: slow cooked egg, caramelized mushroom duxelle, crisp maitake infused lardo and onion broth–delish. I then moved on to a small, full-bodied dish—hand cut tagliatelle with duck confit ragout, pumpkin, toasted pecans and sage—while my husband enjoyed a duo of rabbit loin with braised shoulder, roasted beets and sauteed greens. We skipped the Robust course and went straight for dessert–my favorite dish there–roasted apples with apple puree, caramel, donut holes and, the best part of all, home made brown butter ice cream. I could’ve eaten it all night. But there was more to see the next day and more tastes of Virginia to take in, so we turned in for a blissful night in our beautiful room.
“Charlottesville has a lot to offer–wineries, history, outdoors, downtown,” says general manager Niall Reid, and what’s unique about Clifton Inn is “You can get a feel for all of that here at Clifton without even leaving the property.” But, of course, you should, as there’s so much to see and do around the area.
Shop Boppin’
Charlottesville is known for its Pedestrian Mall, unique shops and restaurants that line a brick pathway through the heart of the historic downtown. There you’ll find everything from specialty stores like Rock, Papers, Scissors, a haven for anyone who appreciates fine papers, cards and accessories, to Vintage Vixen, a mecca of couture clothing where my hubby scored a vintage Hermes “Evelyn” bag for our anniversary.
Supper Scene
The dining scene in Charlottesville is eclectic (two newly opened spots—Tempo for inventive fusions and the “sky top bar” at Commonwealth—are both worth checking out). One particular restaurant is doing an exceptional job of consciously highlighting regional fare presented perfectly prepared. Brookville Restaurant may just be one of Charlottesville’s best kept secrets, tucked on a second floor at the corner of the Pedestrian Mall, its interior is simple yet sophisticated: exposed brick walls; comfortable, high-backed leather chairs and white linens, juxtaposed by Mason jars for water. We just loved the fact that the craft beer list came before the wine list. The feeling is casual, while the food is fine. The Brookville Burger is a must. Its components change daily, and it’s divinely delicious. The version my husband had was stuffed with cheddar, bacon and caramelized onions, topped with a fried egg and a piquant BBQ sauce of sorts and served with a spicy macaroni salad. I saw pork belly on the menu and my heart melted, as did the dish in my mouth. Crispy skin with marbled meat paired perfectly with creamy polenta and sautéed Granny Smith apples spiced with cinnamon. Signature bacon chocolate chip cookies came home with us for later. The talented chef, Harrison Keevil, and his charming wife and restaurant partner, Jennifer, actually met working at Clifton Inn.
The Drive
Take the scenic route past West Virginia’s Harper’s Ferry State Park (worth the stop) to Skyline Drive (we eventually drove all 105 miles); it’s a must see scenic drive that draws over 300,000 visitors each October! SS
