Named for the chef who never showed up back in 1984 when the restaurant first opened, Victor's is much different today than it was back then-a word-of-mouth, "regulars" bar, explains executive chef George Sheffer. It still has that "in the know" feeling. It's tucked away in a York neighborhood, housed in a stoic church dating back to 1923, and you'd never know it was there-unless you're into bocce ball or craft beer. In which case, Victor's is a must.
"It's been nice to continue the original vision and expand on that," says co-owner Mark Sindicich. "We inherited Del Miller," says his wife Marie, referring to the bocce ball greens master who sits at his regular seat at the cozy bar. Forty-four teams of two carry on a tradition that started in 1985. The court is always open for diners to play before or after dinner, if there’s not a scheduled match. Sunday, September 11, come out to see if Team “Gotcha” (York Wallcoverings’ Carl Vizzi and Dick Glasser) will hold onto their title as reigning champs for the third year in a row. (Rain date is September 18.)
“We’ve taken a great foundation and made it our own,” says Marie. Both owner-couples travel frequently and bring back ideas, she adds. “We’re all into music because that’s our passion,” she continues. Victor’s features live music three nights a week. Thursday night’s open mic “is more like a jam session than Pheobe from Friends singing ‘Smelly Cat,’” Marie jokes. Friday and Saturday nights feature live jazz.
Also new to the restaurant is “the beer aspect,” a hobby of the two owners, Mark says, “is bringing in a new crowd.” When Mark and his business partner Sam Yost took over the restaurant in 2007, he says, “York at the time only had a couple of venues that offered craft brews.” At Victor’s, a large chalkboard on the wall of the bar lists the offerings, including limited special edition bottles like Breckinridge Vanilla Porter, Russian River, Founders, 21st Amendment and Dogfish Head, plus regional brews like Victory and Troegs.
“Their hobbies became our jobs,” says Marie, who runs the day-to-day operations (including the bocce ball schedule and a notable wine list) along with Ann Marie Yost.
Some of the regulars even jokingly consider Victor's their "church"
Chef Sheffer has been in his new role for about three years, but he started out at Victor’s when he was 14 washing dishes and busing tables. After receiving a culinary arts degree at Yorktowne Business Institute, Sheffer was most recently the executive chef at The White Rose before coming full circle back to Victor’s. While he’s made the menu his own with seasonal changes, sourcing local ingredients (the restaurant is a partner with York’s Buy Fresh Buy Local chapter) and purchasing imported or handmade meats and cheeses directly from South Philly, he says two dishes that can never come off the menu due to popularity are the chicken Parmesan and the chicken marsala (both $18).
“People come in just for the lamb chops [marinated and grilled, served with a balsamic reduction] and George’s fish,” says Marie; he has a way with the seafood he gets delivered fresh (never frozen) from Baltimore that guests come back for.
Salmon smothered in house-made tomato ginger jam is served with Parmesan risotto and vegetables ($28). Sauteed Gulf shrimp over handmade blue crab ravioli are served with tomatoes, asparagus and Old Bay cream sauce ($28). In addition, the ravioli and pappardelle pasta is homemade if you’re in the know.
Ask about the “Chef’s Table” menu, which features a weekly special offering of seasonal dishes such as scallops crudo, marinated ceviche-style with lemon, lime, chili peppers, mint, green onions and tomatoes ($12). One dish that Sheffer prepared as a special made it onto the menu full time: Lobster mac and cheese made with orzo, fontina and mascarpone, served with a whole lobster on top.
A must-try for chocoholics, local baker Providence Spotts’ espresso cake is layered with chocolate, espresso buttercream and rich cake ($7). Or try one of many martinis like Victor’s biscotti martini—vanilla vodka, amaretto and Frangelico, shaken and served in a cinnamon-and sugar-rimmed glass. Of course, classics like tiramisu and cannoli round out the selection of dolce or sweets.
The dining room is intimate, seating 57 amid high stained glass windows arching above. To capture the real deal feel of the place, sit on the cozy patio, which holds 20. Nestled under lights and foliage, you get the sense of the neighborhood while sitting right outside the church façade. In fact, some of the regulars even jokingly consider Victor’s their “church.”
VICTOR'S | 554 South Ogontz Street, York | 717-854-7958 | www.victorsofyork.com Hours Lunch: Mon-Sat 11am-2pm; Dinner: Mon Wed 5-9:30pm, Thurs-Sat 5-10pm
