A classic is a classic for a reason: it’s an example of excellence imbued with a timeless quality, always in style. This year’s Silver Spoon Awards feature three restaurants that embody that definition. Each establishment has embraced and honored their historic origins while simultaneously breathing new life into their creations, from a Tudor Revival style mansion along the Susquehanna, to a Prohibition-era speakeasy atop a horse stable, to a 19th century inn for weary travelers. Diners will revel in these renovated eateries plating up traditional fare with a proper measure of flare and uniqueness. Read on and get the full list of the region’s 70 best restaurants.
A Family A Fare
Recently opened, The First Post is a stunning testament to one man’s vision and a family’s devotion. The renovated and expanded structure is inspiring, with an unexpected attention to details rarely seen in new construction–decadently high ceilings, elaborate oak carpentry, and pressed tin ceilings. As co-owner Athena Keares says, “we customized the custom.”
Keares’ uncle, Nick Kocoronis, had his eye on the property for years. Thought to date back to 1848, the original estate was a residence and, later, an inn and popular stop along the highway. In the early 1980s, it was a restaurant called the Road House. “We purchased it about four years ago,” says Keares. “My uncle was the main contractor; he said, ‘I’ll build it; you figure the rest out.’” “You” meant the rest of the team, which includes Keares, her brother Harry, her father (Nick’s brother) Gus, and Nick’s sons Bobby and Billy. They were already partners in two other successful ventures: the Great American Saloon in Red Lion and Stonybrook Family Restaurant a few doors down from the East Market Street building.
“Then, we lost my uncle unexpectedly [in May 2014] at age 60,” says Keares. The family began piecing together the plans for certain rooms and areas. They asked each other what they thought Nick wanted. “We had so little on paper, but he had picked out the light fixtures and bought the back bar, which dates back to 1839, before the addition was up. The church pews along the wall, those were in storage for a while,” she notes. Gus became the general contractor. He oversaw parts of the original building unearthed—windows, doors, a fireplace. Some of the hardwood floors were refurbished; in other rooms tile floors were installed. “We tried to balance the look and the function,” says Keares.
Inside the grand space, smells wafting from the kitchen are intoxicating. Chef Dionissios Karabas was in the kitchen prepping his stocks and sauces. A family friend “born into the business,” Karabas earned his culinary stripes at York Technical Institute, followed by stints at the Breakers in Palm Beach and Gibraltar in Lancaster.
The First Post offers fine dining preparation in a casual upscale atmosphere. Customer favorites include the hibachi flank steak with whipped potatoes, wasabi butter and tempura asparagus and the seared scallops with risotto and honey citrus vinaigrette. To start with, diners are opting for the creamy burrata with pesto and heirloom tomatoes and the grilled octopus with fava bean puree, capers, grapes and pine nuts. Although the area has fairly traditional tastes, Kearas notes that “with the popularity of food shows, people are becoming more open and adventurous with food,” hence the popularity of the grilled octopus.
With 12,000 square feet, seating for more than 200 people, and 80 new hires, seeing this project to completion was deeply personal. While Keares doesn’t reveal the cost of the renovations, it’s clear The First Post is more than receipts and profits. “I couldn’t be prouder of my father; he lost his best friend. This replaces some of that loss. You want to be successful, but this matters in a different way,” says Keares.
The First Post | www.thefirstpostyork.com
Artful Dining
or owner Char Magaro, her business is her art, and one’s dining experience should go well beyond what’s on the plate. “I eat with my eyes, so for me it’s important for a facility to reflect the quality of the food,” she says. The mansion is, in a way, Magaro’s canvas, featuring an elegant outdoor sculpture garden, delicate hand blown glass light fixtures, and a colorful mix of paintings adorning the walls.
Originally built for industrialist David Tracy during World War I, Tracy Mansion is one of three that was built along Front Street in Harrisburg, and the only one that remains. When Susquehanna Real Estate, which purchased the property in 2005, approached Magaro with the opportunity to transform the historic manor into a fine dining establishment, she didn’t hesitate. Her first restaurant, Bella Mundo, an American bistro, opened in 2002 a few miles away. It was already very successful, but there was no space to grow. Tracy Mansion was a prime opportunity.
“I had always wanted two restaurants where I owned the real estate and the business, so when I wanted out I could sell and retire,” says Magaro. Subsequently, the restaurant is currently for sale. “Some people do 401Ks; I’m not good with stuff like that. I invest in myself.” It would take a few years to finalize the various details. During that time, Tropical Storm Lee came rushing in and flooded Bella Mundo with several feet of water. She had rebuilt once before, in 2004, but this time she decided to sell the building and pour her energy into transforming Tracy Mansion.
In 5 months' time, she oversaw extensive renovations inside and outside, most notably the installation of six geo-thermal wells to provide gas heat. “I’ve done a lot of environmental activism throughout my life; climate change is my focus now. You need to walk your talk and honor yourself,” says Magaro. The restaurant is also 100 percent wind powered.
Char’s Tracy Mansion opened in the fall of 2012 with former Bella Mundo executive chef Ron Canady overseeing the kitchen. Canady’s been honing his culinary skills for more than a dozen years, drawing inspiration for his menu from classic French techniques. “Some restaurants really try to ‘wow’ people, but the pendulum swings. The farm to table concept is the ‘in’ thing right now. We have our own take on it, offering austere food, local, and fresh. Simplicity is the best form of food,” he notes. Patrons are offered traditional staples like beef tartare, escargot, risotto, and pork tenderloin, but they’ll also find some more worldly notes with the harissa rubbed T-bone and the shrimp red curry.
Although Char’s is a white-cloth establishment, they’re suitable for any occasion. Grab a seat on the veranda for a view of the picturesque sunset on Sundays or Mondays and delight in their selection of $25 bottles of wine. For a little after-work indulgence, diners can opt for a spot at the bar or in the library and try their signature cocktails and $10 small plates–the trout amandine pairs well with a blood orange martini. They also offer a moderately priced 2- or 3-course prix fixe menu, available Sundays through Thursdays, a nice way to sample Canady’s creations. In all, Char’s mission is not only about creating a unique and artful dining experience for patrons, it’s also about giving back to the community and providing lasting inspiration.
Char’s at Tracy Mansion | www.charsrestaurant.com
Lost and Found
On the east side of Lancaster, off the beaten path, the Horse Inn was known during Prohibition as the place to go for some secret libations. With the entrance located on a no-name alley and the bar upstairs in a converted hayloft, it was the perfect foil. Even today, with an additional (marked) entrance on East Fulton Street, patrons often get lost.
Matt Russell, a Lancaster native, and his wife Starla, originally from Memphis, met while attending Johnson & Wales University in Charleston, South Carolina. Matt was mastering his culinary skills, while Starla focused on restaurant management. After graduating, Starla managed a few different clubs, sold restaurant equipment, and bartended. Matt spent a decade at the renowned McCrady’s Restaurant working alongside James Beard-award-winning chef Sean Brock. Although toiling away for others, they knew someday they would have their own restaurant.
By 2012, they were ready to leave Charleston and head north, closer to family, to pursue their dream. Starla had fallen in love with Lancaster on her many visits over the years. Matt had planned to come back eventually. Finding the right place took time. “We looked at every available space, old and new,” says Matt. As with all things that are meant to be, when Starla walked into the Horse Inn, she knew this was it.
The Russells took over in January 2014 and were open for business in May. They did a number of renovations, but were sure to preserve the speakeasy feel while creating a more functional space. “People pay millions of dollars to make their restaurants look like this, and this place just looks like this organically,” says Starla. The main dining area features an open, airy room with a bar at the far end and stalls serving as semi-private seating areas. The front entrance, off Fulton Street, leads you to a second bar area and the crown jewel: a 1950s jukebox stocked with some 2000 45s, restored to working order, and free.
One enduring legacy from the previous owner, Al Medved, who owned the restaurant for almost 40 years, is the famed tenderloin tips on toast. “Each and every customer we talked to asked if that would be on the menu,” says Starla. The Russells were smart to oblige, but they did put their own twist on the signature dish, serving the tips on an Alfred & Sam’s roll topped with house made jus of veal stock and red wine demi-glace. The Russells also found themselves on a mission “to find something that would outsell the tips and toast,” Starla says, laughing. The winning dish? A cheeseburger. Clearly, this isn’t any old cheeseburger. This is a custom blend of meat–dry aged beef, chuck, short rib, and brisket.
Matt worked hard to create a menu that would be large enough to please a variety of tastes, but small enough to maintain high quality by using the freshest ingredients available. He shops at the Central Market every day that it’s open and plans his menu accordingly. Other customer favorites: littleneck clams with bacon, melted leeks and cream; citrus shrimp lettuce wraps; and the Dutchie–a Lancaster inspired Cuban sandwich.
Fitting for a former speakeasy, equal care is given to the beverages. All of the juices are fresh squeezed, and all of the syrups and tinctures are made in house. They also started making alcoholic sodas–watermelon, chai, peach— “hand bottled, hand carbonated with vodka, gin, or bourbon,” says Starla. With the empty horse stable below, the Russells are considering getting a distiller’s license.
There are, of course, some drawbacks to owning such an old building. The first day they opened the air conditioning didn’t work. “When it rains we pretend we’re on a boat,” Starla says, laughing. But their good humor offsets whatever issues have come up. “We are so lucky to have this place. It is what we thought it would be; it just needed some polishing,” says Matt.
The Horse Inn | www.horseinnlancaster.com
The 2015 List
1. Accomac Inn Fine dining on the Susquehanna River’s York bank. 2. Ad Lib A Harrisburg craft kitchen and bar with spontaneous tastes. 3. Andalusia A tapas bar featuring authentic small plates from Spain and Morocco in downtown Carlisle. 4. Annie Bailey's Upscale Irish and internationally inspired fare in a casual,cozy pub atmosphere. 5. Aussie and the Fox A chic King Street concept brings an Australian-Americaninspired menu to Lancaster. 6. Bistro Barberet & Bakery Lancaster’s newest downtown destination for contemporary French fare. 7. Blue Bird Inn A Cornwall-area 19th century lodge featuring an extensive menu of beer and good eats. 8. Blue Heron Authentic French cuisine in York County.
9. Bricco
Mediterranean flavors interpreted through Pennsylvania produce in the heart of downtown Harrisburg.
10. C&D Bar & Grill Just outside the quaint historic town of New Oxford, a cozy spot for superb seafood and steaks. 11. Cafe Fresco A hip day-or-night haunt on Harrisburg’s Restaurant Row.
12. Carr's
Regional tastes in an art-inspired setting in the heart of downtown Lancaster’s Central Market District.
13. Char's Tracy Mansion An old favorite in a new location, perched on the bank of the Susquehanna River.
14. Checkers Bistro
One of Lancaster’s most elegantly designed restaurants. Go for the cocktails and stay for the food.
15. Circular A timeless Hershey tradition for special occasions. 16. Citronnelle A modern French BYOB in downtown Lancaster serving seasonal ingredients with global flair. 17. Cork & Cap Casual-chic dining in a former cork and bottle cap factory on Lancaster’s historic East side. 18. Cork and Fork A Harrisburg city gem bringing together good food and good people. 19. Devon Seafood + Steak Modern dining in the heart of Hershey featuring fresh-everyday seafood. 20. Fenz A sleek yet casual social gathering spot for drinks and refined fare.
21. Fiddler & Co.
A BYOB craft kitchen just outside of Gettysburg, worth the drive for an inventive culinary experience.
22. Forklift & Palate Classic American eats, industrial style, at the nation's largest indoor sports complex. 23. Gabriella’s A Harrisburg-area favorite for Italian in a cozy atmosphere. 24. General Sutter Inn The cornerstone of downtown Lititz with lodging and fine dining in a beautiful sunroom setting. 25. Harvest Rustic elegance on the grounds of the historic Hotel Hershey featuring farm-fresh fare.
26. Harvest Seasonal Grill & Wine Bar
Known for low calorie, seasonally changing cuisine conveniently located at The Shoppes at Susquehanna Marketplace.
27. Home 231 Farm-to-table inspired dishes and creative cocktails in midtown Harrisburg. 28. Hunger-N-Thirst Lancaster’s Harrisburg Avenue hip spot for craft beer and provisions. 29. Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant Freshly brewed beer and upscale pub fare on Lancaster’s College Row. 30. Irv's Pub A new Hershey hangout cultivating comfort food and cocktails.
31. John J. Jeffries
Seasonal, sustainable fine food and creative cocktails in a contemporary former tobacco warehouse in the Lancaster Arts Hotel.
32. John Wright Restaurant Go for the river views; stay for the food, company, and spirits. 33. Lily's on Main Dine Art Deco style above the historic Ephrata Main Theatre. 34. Ma(i)son A Lancaster Gallery Row BYOB featuring Napa style cuisine. 35. Mangia Qui The best of Europe in the mid-state with a beautiful capital view. 36. The Millworks Bringing together art, music, and food in midtown Harrisburg. 37. Moonlight Café One of York’s best kept BYOB secrets for Italian. 38. Mulberry Social Casually sophisticated, led by one of Lancaster’s long-time favorite chefs. 39. One Lincoln A fresh take on tradition on Gettysburg’s historic square. 40. Otto’s Kitchen & Cocktails Where all the cool kids go for crafty cocktails and seriously good Southern-inspired eats. 41. Penn Square Grille Local fare inside the sleek ambience of Lancaster’s historic Marriott at Penn Square. 42. Porch A long-time Lebanon area fave worth the country drive.
43. Pour
Follow the Lancaster Gallery Row sidewalk to the back entrance and step inside for an epicurean adventure.
44. Roosevelt Tavern A timeless York tradition with a fresh face and fare. 45. Rubicon A taste of France elegantly appointed in midtown Harrisburg.
46. Sidney
Modern American, French-influenced fine dining in historic East Berlin, which also offers casual fare and live entertainment.
47. Sidney Willoughby Run Fine dining with serene Gettysburg battlefield views. 48.1700 Steakhouse The capital city’s great American steakhouse. 49. Stock's on 2nd A farm-to-fork gastropub on Harrisburg’s Restaurant Row. 50. Stockyard Inn Lancaster’s legendary steakhouse on the former site of historic cattle stockyards. 51. Suba Tapas Bar Tastes of Spain and Brazil with capital views. 52. The Belvedere Inn An elegant-yet-upbeat downtown Lancaster fave. Go for the grilled Caesar; stay for the nightlife. 53. The First Post A fresh take on old favorites in an early 1900’s pub atmosphere with impeccable service. 54. The Foundry Lebanon’s new flame and gathering spot. 55. The Garlic Poet A New Cumberland favorite hang out for inventive cuisine.
56. The Greenfield Restaurant & Bar
A Lancaster staple for lunch, brunch, dinner, jazz, and fine wines in a recently renovated 1780-era farmhouse.
57. The Horse Inn A hidden gem and former Lancaster speakeasy worth finding.
58. The Inn at Herr Ridge
Locally-sourced creative cuisine and an award-winning wine list amid Gettysburg battlefield history.
59. The Left Bank Downtown York’s go-to for a night out.
60. The Log Cabin
Travel to scenic Lancaster County by way of the kissing bridge for a memorable meal in an unforgettable place.
61. The Mill Contemporary cuisine housed in a 1900 Hershey feed mill. 62. The Paddock on Market A casual yet creative east York dining tradition. 63. The Pressroom A nod to neighboring Lancaster Newspapers with new reasons to visit. 64. Trattoria Fratelli A locally-known tradition tucked away in a Lebanon neighborhood. 65. Trattoria Piatto Taste authentic Italy via fresh local ingredients on Carlisle’s charming Pomfret Street. 66. Trevi 5 The five flavor combinations of Italy at the Hotel Hershey. 67. Tutoni’s Downtown York’s spot for innovative Italian. 68. Victor's Italian Restaurant A suburban York hidden gem for food, wine, craft beer, and live music.
69. Wyndridge Farm
Food with a view. York County’s rolling hills are home to an award-winning venue with craft cider, beer, and an estate farm.
70. York Blue Moon Bistro dining in downtown York with an enclosed courtyard and rotating art gallery.
By Michelle Ciarrocca / Photography by Donovan Roberts Witmer
