What are the odds that while on a trip to Trinidad a young American boy from Lancaster would meet his future wife, who was moving to Lancaster to go to college a block from his home? And who would guess that 16 years, two kids and a cat later, the couple would end up opening a Trinidadian restaurant and find out their neighbors—and many more in the area—are from Trinidad too?
“We’ve had so many Trinidadians come through the door,” remarks Amanda Kinert, who co-owns Callaloo Trinidadian Kitchen with husband and chef Amos. In the first two months they were open, 75-100 Trinidadians who live in Lancaster came in. And those who know words from the Trinidadian English Creole, like “buss up shut,” aren’t the only ones flocking to this little island retreat in Lancaster’s West End neighborhood. Locals are loving and raving about the flavors—social media has been ablaze since the opening May 1st.
“I just fell in love with the culture and the people,” says Amos. Seven miles past the coast of Venezuela lies the twin island republic of Trinidad and Tobago, a country of 1.3 million. While Tobago is more like a typical Caribbean island, Trinidad is an industrialized fusion of people and cuisine. The population is half Indian and half African, and the food features flavors like curries and other Asian ingredients merchants brought from China. Even a small population of Spanish, French, Syrian and Lebanese immigrants lend their national tastes to the local cuisine.
“The food crosses all economic classes, from the guy with the shirt and tie to the guy with no shirt,” says Amos. “We tried to intentionally price as low as we can so everyone can try it,” adds Amanda.
Doubles are by far the most sought-after dish. “Doubles are to Trinidad what tacos are to Mexico,” explains Amos. And at just $3.75 for one, they’re worth adding on to taste. “I love doubles,” says Amanda, who recalls the Trinidadian customers coming in and just ordering those for a taste of home. Doubles are two pieces of fried flatbread with curried chickpeas, topped with a sweet tamarind sauce and an herbacious cilantro sauce. Another plus: “a lot of the food here is naturally vegan and vegetarian,” she adds.
“When you go to Maracas Bay [in Trinidad] you have to get a ‘Shark and Bake,’” explains Amos. It’s like getting boardwalk fries at the shore here in the US, he compares. Andrew Zimmern raved about the sandwich on his show, and it’s famous. A brioche-style roll studded with fresh coconut is sandwiched around a lightly fried fish called swai, topped with crunchy slaw and served with savory pineapple on the side to make the perfect bite. It’s a blissful umami moment of hot, cool, sweet, salty and savory—delish.
“Buss up shut” is Trinidadian slang for “busted up shirt,” which the roti style bread used as a vehicle for Trinidadian food (much like naan would be used for Indian food) sort of resembles. “Back in the 50s, 60s, 70s, paratha [or roti] was only made for special occasions like weddings,” explains Amanda. “It’s only four ingredients, but it’s very labor intensive.” Amos, who travelled to Trinidad and studied with Amanda’s father to perfect the craft, describes it as “flaky like a croissant but soft like a tortilla. My dad started offering it in his restaurants,” and the rest is history. Today at Callaloo, “We tell people it’s optional to use a fork and knife.” Like every Trinidadian restaurant, it has a hand washing station. “It’s just different to see…it’s very experiential—a different way of approaching food,” explains Amanda.
The cozy, bright restaurant—with its shiplap banquettes and rustic lighting—pulses to reggae music, the smells of a foreign land making it feel like you’ve stepped from the city onto a tropical island, but not in a cheesy ethnic restaurant kind of way; the design is well done and intentional. “You have to meet your customer where they’re at,” says Amanda. Fun oversized infographics designed by The Infantree hang on the walls and explain some of the “Trini” language, the culture and even the heat scale of sauces. “Education is a big part of what we want to do as a couple. If you understand where something is coming from, you can enjoy it so much more,” says Amanda.
Over lunch, a group of Millennials walks in to order takeout from the counter, a business lunch takes place in Spanish, solo diners sit at the bar, couples enjoy their lunch break and girlfriends get together. Callaloo seats 33, including the bar, and is BYOB. Reservations are accepted in the evenings; lunch is quick counter service, great for those on the go in business.
The Kinerts always knew they would open a restaurant together, with her family in the business and his background in the kitchen. “This was waiting to happen…we’re just so grateful for this little place,” says Amanda with a big smile. And Lancaster is grateful for them too.
Callaloo
351 N. Mulberry St., Lancaster / callalootrinidadiankitchen.com / 717-824-3964