A little over a year ago, Eric and Vickie Hoover were thinking about going abroad on a mission trip to Africa when they learned that Niko’s, an upscale eatery in downtown Lebanon, was closing its doors. “A friend sent me a message saying, ‘you and Eric should take it over,’” Vickie recalls. They used to go to Niko's regularly. Running a successful restaurant was also something they had experience with. "The opportunity fell into our laps,” says Vickie. “We always loved the atmosphere of the building, so we decided to go for it.”
The space is situated above the historic farmers market, and the Hoovers knew they needed to come up with an original concept to set them apart from other restaurants in the area. As renovations commenced, Eric came across Grillworks Inc., an American company that specializes in custom-made wood-fired grills. The closest one of its kind is in New York City at Marta, Danny Meyer’s Italian pizzeria and restaurant. The couple set out for the Big Apple to experience firsthand what this grill could do.
“The type of food the grill puts out, there’s a simplicity and uniqueness to it. It’s a whole different taste,” says Vickie. Despite the grill’s hefty price (around $50,000), the 15 weeks it took to build, and the crane necessary to get it into the building, it was exactly the centerpiece the Hoovers were looking for–the Foundry Craft Grillery was born.
Before you even enter the building, you’ll smell the smoke swirling through the air. Follow your nose up three flights of stairs (or opt for the elevator) and pass the cords of kiln-dried hardwood stacked neatly in the hall to the main dining area. With exposed brick walls, towering pressed tin ceilings, plank wood floors and accents of steel, the space successfully merges old school warehouse with sleek industrial for a cozy, hip vibe. The open kitchen–flames and all–is on full display.
For executive chef Dwayne Spencer, the “face melting” grill is the perfect tool for his culinary creations. The pizza oven heats up to 700 degrees, and the 8-foot grill reaches 1,000 degrees. “Throughout my career, I’ve always worked the grill station. I also love the outdoors and camping and cooking meals over an open fire,” he says. Still, preparing food on a grill of this magnitude is an art, a craft, just as the name states. Spencer was fortunate to spend some time honing his grilling techniques at Marta as part of an apprenticeship before Foundry Craft Grillery opened in May.
Diners can “forge” their own individual artisan pizzas–choose your sauce (tomato, basil pesto or roasted garlic crema) and toppings (pepperoni, mushroom, spinach, bacon or caramelized onions). One of the chef’s specialty pairings: prosciutto and fig is finished with arugula and burrata or try the “infierno,” which is topped with beer braised bratwurst, chicken, marinated red pepper and mozzarella.
Heartier dishes from the grill include St. Boniface brined chicken, Limestone Springs rainbow trout done saltimbocca style, and a variety of steaks—filet mignon, rib-eye or sirloin cooked to your liking. The entrees come with a sauce of your choice such as fresh chimichurri, their signature steak sauce, or a red wine demi-glace. You can also pick two sides, like charred Brussels sprouts and wood fired sweet corn with bruschetta butter. The burger, which is very popular, is a blend chef Spencer grinds in-house, grilled and topped with spinach, Brie and bacon jam.
Chef Spencer takes full advantage of the county’s seasonal bounty, from the roadside vegetable and fruit stands to the locally sourced trout and meats. As manager Cole Martin points out, “We’re a scratch restaurant–nothing is from a jar. It’s all made from scratch: the sauces, our pickles, sauerkraut, our rabbit sausage; everything is fresh.”
The simple fare and rustic preparation extends to the bar, too. The cocktails feature homemade sour mix, fresh squeezed juices and a variety of tinctures and bitters made with everything from thyme and rosemary to pink peppercorns. In sticking with the grill theme, try the Burnt Ember made with apricot brandy, rum, St. Germain and pineapple juice, finished with flamed orange zest and served in a smoke-infused glass.
Although only open less than a year, Foundry Craft Grillery has become a destination restaurant with customers coming from afar nightly. But a major hurdle has been breaking free from the former establishment’s high-end, fine-dining reputation. “Niko’s was very expensive; we are not that—that’s not what we wanted to do. We’re comfortable, laid back, and relaxed, with quality food,” says Vickie. Between their nightly happy hour with $2 off draft beer, wine, signature cocktails and small plates, live music on Thursday nights, and a new brunch service on Sundays, local patrons are starting to find their way to the fire.
Foundry Craft Grillery 33 South 8th St., Lebanon / www.foundrylebanon.com / 717-639-2055
By Michelle Ciarrocca / Photography by Donovan Roberts Witmer
