The long-awaited return of vernal weather has finally descended here in Central PA, and I couldn’t be happier because it means long days in the saddle of my road bike, wading trout streams and—of course—drinking beer on a patio somewhere as the sun warms my skin.
For the craft beer nerd (read: me), the shifting seasons means lighter, crisper (but no less flavorful) ales and lagers will be featured on the tap handles at local bars and pubs. While I may occasionally reach for the brawny, full bodied stout or bracingly bitter and aromatic IPA, my palate tends towards easy quaffing beers—light to medium bodied with just enough hop character and aroma to keep me interested and a yeast profile that has some personality. Spring seasonal offerings at your local craft beer bar might include witbier, hefeweizen or American wheat beer, but in my mind, Kölsch is perhaps the perfect springtime beer.
Kölsch is a style historically brewed in and around Cologne (Köln), Germany. An appellation protected by the Kölsch Convention, it is defined as “a light, highly attenuated, hop-accentuated, clear top-fermenting Vollbier.”
The term Kölsch was first officially used in 1918 to describe the beer that had been brewed by the Sünner brewery since 1906, but the style never became particularly popular in the first half of the twentieth century, when bottom-fermented beers (i.e. lagers) prevailed as in the rest of Germany. Prior to World War II, Cologne had over forty breweries, reduced to two in the devastation and its aftermath.
Now while that description might be interesting and useful from a legal perspective, it does nothing to educate the drinker about what to expect if they have the good fortune of finding an imported Kölsch (or domestically brewed Kölsch-style variant) on tap, so I’ll turn to my own tasting notes.
Aroma: Pilsner malt aroma, often described as “graininess”. A pleasant, subtle fruit aroma from fermentation (apple, cherry or pear) may be present. Noble hop aroma may be present in some versions, but is generally considered optional.
Appearance: Very pale gold to light gold. Authentic (read: imported versions) are filtered to a brilliant clarity. Has a delicate white head that may not persist.
Flavor: Soft, rounded palate comprising of a delicate flavor balance between soft yet attenuated malt, an almost imperceptible fruity sweetness from fermentation, and a medium-low to medium bitterness with a delicate dryness and slight pucker in the finish (but no harsh aftertaste). The noble hop flavor is variable, and can range from low to moderately high; most are medium-low to medium. Some versions can have a slightly minerally or sulfury water or yeast character that accentuates the dryness and flavor balance.
Mouthfeel: Smooth and crisp. Medium-light body and medium to medium-high carbonation. Well-attenuated. The result is a light, dry and supremely refreshing quaff.
Overall Impression: A clean, crisp, delicately balanced beer usually with very subtle fruit flavors and aromas. Subdued maltiness throughout leads to a pleasantly refreshing tang in the finish. To the untrained taster, this style easily mistaken for a light lager, a somewhat subtle Pilsner, or perhaps a blonde ale.
Local(ish) Examples:
Stoudt Karnival Kölsch (Adamstown, PA) 4.8% ABV
Penn Brewery Cool River Kölsch (Pittsburgh, PA) 4.5% ABV
Free Will Brewing Company Community Kölsch (Perkasie, PA) 4.8% ABV
Molly Pitcher Brewing Company Cannonball Kölsch (Carlisle, PA) 4.5% ABV
If you want to chase away winter’s chill with these brawny sippers and more, I recommend patronizing these local watering holes with a craft beer focus:
Federal Taphouse (locations in Harrisburg and Lancaster)
Holy Hound Taproom (York)
The Garlic Poet (New Cumberland)
Al’s of Hampden/Pizza Boy Brewing Company (Enola)
All of these spots rotate taps frequently, so be sure to check their websites for current taplists.
