Photography by Donovan Roberts Witmer
No wedding celebration can be complete without a bit of bubbly. This much-loved beverage has long been the standard for special occasion sipping, but how much do you really know about the stuff?
“Champagne is the benchmark for sparkling wines around the world,” explains Jen Brown, a champagne expert for Fine Wine & Good Spirits (www.finewineandgoodspirits.com). That means not just any sparkling wine can be labeled champagne. No, only wines that come from the Champagne region of France and follow a very specific production procedure can be given the prestigious title.
“Champagne is champagne,” she says. “Everything else is not.”
Of the six types of grapes grown in this region, only three are commonly used to create champagne, says Brown. These are the pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot meunier varieties. Champagnes that use only white grapes (chardonnay) are referred to as Blanc de Blancs, whereas champagnes that use all red grapes (pinot noir or pinot meunier) are called Blanc de Noirs. By adding a bit of pinot noir reserve wine to an existing white wine, Rose champagne is born. This method creates a champagne that has a hint of color, but retains its delicate flavor.
All champagne goes through two fermentation processes, which create more refined flavors than other types of wine. In the traditional champagne-making process, the second fermentation is done within the bottle, rather than in a cask or tank like other varieties of sparkling wine (think Moscato or Prosecco).
Clearly, much consideration has gone into creating such a unique and special beverage. But did you also realize that champagne is an incredibly versatile drink? In fact, Brown says it’s perfect to serve at a wedding when dishes of all flavors are being tasted. “Because the palate [of champagne] is clean and fresh, it is the one thing that can tie all of those types of food together.”
Here, we’ve enlisted Brown to demonstrate champagne’s versatility, pairing the beverage with flavors ranging from delicate to rich, salty to sweet, as provided by some of the Susquehanna Valley’s premier caterers.
Here are some terms that will be helpful to know when you’re selecting champagne for your celebration:
A champagne can be classified as either vintage or non-vintage.
• Vintage champagne is made from the grape harvest of a single year and is aged at least three years. Vintage varieties are more complex, with toasty, nutty notes and more creaminess. They pair well with rich flavors like roasted meats, buttery lobster, and cream-based sauces.
• Non-vintage champagne (or NV) can be created from the harvests of multiple years and is aged a minimum of fifteen months. Non-vintage champagne is cleaner, lighter, and fresher. Because it will not overpower, these varieties pair well with a range of flavors.
Tip: Brown recommends starting a multi-course meal with a lighter, non-vintage champagne and working toward a more complex vintage variety.
• Dosage is the term used for the amount of sugar that is added to champagne. There are seven classifications of champagne based on the dosage, from dry to sweet: brut nature, extra brut, brut, extra dry, sec, demi sec, and doux.
• Brut nature and extra brut are the driest champagnes, and they pair nicely with seafood dishes or alongside hors d’oeuvres with some richness and salt, like charcuterie and roasted almonds.
• Brut is the most common and most versatile type of champagne. It has a middle-of-the-road dryness. Try it with anything from sushi to aged cheese.
• Extra dry, sec, and demi sec range from a bit to a great deal sweeter than brut. Because these champagnes are on the more sugary side of the spectrum, they can hold up to a variety of sweet items, from fruits to cakes to caramel.
• Doux is the sweetest kind of champagne, but it is not a common variety. It would pair with higher-sugar desserts.
Tip: Brown’s rule of thumb for pairings: don’t pair high acid with high sugar. Keep sugary foods with sweeter champagnes, and more acidic foods with drier champagnes.
White Fish Ceviche
Pair with: Champagne Moutard Grande Cuvee Brut NV $27.99 for 750 mL bottle, item number 48025 from Fine Wine & Good Spirits
ingredients: • 6 limes cut in half and hollowed out with metal spoon (reserve juice) • ¾ pound white fish (haddock or mild tilapia) • ¼ cup tomato, seeded and finely diced • ¼ cup cucumber, peeled, seeded, and finely diced • 2 tablespoons fresh chopped cilantro • 1 tablespoon onion, finely diced • ½ teaspoon salt • ½ teaspoon pepper • Dash of hot sauce • Cilantro to garnish
Directions:
• Cut limes in half and scoop out insides with metal spoon over a bowl to collect juice.
• On a separate cutting board, chop fish into small pieces and toss in 2 tablespoons of the lime juice. Marinate in refrigerator for 1 hour. Fish should appear slightly white. Do not marinate for more than 1 hour.
• Drain juice from fish completely and add remaining ingredients, tossing gently. If stronger lime taste is desired, add a few drops at a time. Too much lime juice will break down the fish.
• Arrange lime cups on a serving platter and add ceviche mixture to each lime cup. Garnish with fresh cilantro. Serve immediately or up to 1 hour later. Must stay cold.
By Premier Caterers of Camp Hill, www.premier-caterers.com
Duck Confit Salad with Hazelnuts and Dried Cherries
Pair with: Billecart Salmon Champagne Brut Rose Wine Non-Vintage $74.99 for 750 mL bottle, item number 39713 from Fine Wine & Good Spirits
For Duck Confit: • 2 duck legs • 1 tablespoon kosher salt • 1 teaspoon black pepper • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme • 1 teaspoon minced garlic Directions: • Mix seasonings together and coat duck legs. • Place the duck in a container with weighted lid and press the duck for 72 hours in refrigerator. • Brush off any excess seasoning. • Place duck in braiser and cover with rendered duck fat. • Stew the meat in a covered pan at 200 °F for 4 to 6 hours until very tender. • Allow to cool for two hours. Remove excess skin, remove the duck meat, and shred. • Discard bones. For Vinaigrette: • 1 teaspoon dijon mustard • 2 teaspoons honey • 1 tablespoon chopped shallots • 2 tablespoons champagne vinegar • ¼ cup hazelnut oil Directions: • Whisk all ingredients vinaigrette together in a bowl (except oil). • Drizzle oil last while whisking. To assemble salad: • Shredded duck confit from previous recipe • 1/8 cup chopped hazelnuts • 1/8 cup chopped fresh herbs (parsley, thyme, chives) • 1/8 cup dried cherries • Salt and pepper to taste • To serve: endive leaf or crostini Directions: • Mix duck salad ingredients together, mix in vinaigrette. • Spoon duck salad onto endive leaves or crostini and serve.
Note: Duck confit can also be purchased from specialty grocers and resources like Carr's Central Market, Lancaster.
By Rettews Catering of Manheim, www.rettewscatering.com
Chicken Confit and Celery Root Salad
Pair with: Krug Grand Cuvee Champagne NV $159.99 for 750 mL bottle, item number 12267 from Fine Wine & Good Spirits
For Chicken Confit: • Whole chicken • Salt and pepper, to taste • Crushed garlic cloves, to taste • Fresh thyme, to taste Directions: • Season the chicken heavily with salt and black pepper. • Allow to marinate at least 4 hours. • Place chicken in a pot with crushed garlic cloves and fresh thyme. • Cover with oil and place in a 275 °F oven until chicken is falling off the bone. • Remove from oven, pick the meat off the bones. For Hijiki: • 2 tablespoons of dried hijiki (seaweed) • 1 cup soy sauce • ½ cup dashi (Japanese soup stock base) • ½ cup sugar • ¼ cup mirin (Japanese rice wine) • ¼ cup lemon juice • Salt and pepper, to taste
Note: Find specialty items like hijiki and dashi at Asian food stores or select grocers.
Directions:
• Soak dried hijiki in cold water for 20 minutes.
• In a small pot, bring soy sauce, dashi, sugar, mirin and lemon juice to a boil. Taste for seasoning. If too salty, add more dashi.
If not salty enough, add more soy sauce.
• Simmer the drained hijiki in soy
mixture until hijiki is soft.
• Allow to cool. Store the hijiki
in the cooking liquid.
For Celery Root: • Celery root • Chicken oil, from confit preparation • Salt, to taste • Lemon juice, to taste Directions: • Peel and cut the celery root into ½ inch slices. • Place in oil and poach over low heat until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. • Remove from the oil and season heavily with salt and lemon juice. • Cut celery root into bite-sized pieces. For Lemon Vinaigrette: • ¼ cup lemon juice • ¼ cup Dijon mustard • 1 ½ cups of olive oil. • Salt and white pepper, to taste Directions: • Combine all ingredients. To assemble salad: • Chicken confit • 1 tablespoon hijiki, or to taste • 1 tablespoon celery root, or to taste • Radishes, sliced thinly in ice water • Pinch of salt • 1 tablespoon lemon vinaigrette • 1 tablespoon hijiki cooking liquid, or to taste • Arugula or mizuna, to garnish • Optional: toasted wonton or crostini
Directions:
• In a medium mixing bowl, combine the picked chicken meat, hijiki, celery root,
a few of the and a pinch of salt.
• Add lemon vinaigrette and a tablespoon of the hijiki cooking liquid. Lightly toss everything together.
• Garnish with arugula or mizuna.
By The Greenfield Restaurant & Bar of Lancaster, www.thegreenfieldrestaurant.com
Funnel Cake Cupcakes
Pair with: Veuve Clicquot Champagne Demi Sec $47.99 for 750 mL bottle, item number 5042 from Fine Wine & Good Spirits
For Cupcakes: • 2 ½ teaspoons baking powder • 2 ½ cups cake flour • 1 teaspoon cinnamon • 1 ¼ cups whole milk • ½ cup sour cream • 2 ½ teaspoons vanilla • ¾ cup salted butter, slightly softened • 1 ¾ cups sugar • 2 eggs
Directions:
• Preheat oven to 375° F. Line 24 muffin tins with liners and set aside.
• In a medium bowl, whisk together baking powder, cake flour and cinnamon. Set aside.
• In a large glass mixing cup, combine milk, sour cream and vanilla. Set aside.
• In the bowl of mixer, beat butter and sugar on medium until fluffy and light in color (about 3 minutes). Beat in eggs. Add flour and milk mixture alternately, a bit at a time, starting and ending with the flour mixture. Increase speed to medium and beat until batter is smooth.
• Fill prepared muffin tins about ²⁄₃ full. Bake for about 15 minutes or until tops spring back when lightly touched in the center. Remove and cool on wire racks.
For Frosting: • 2 sticks salted butter, slightly softened • ½ cup heavy cream • 1 ½ teaspoon vanilla • 3 cups powdered sugar • ½ teaspoon cinnamon
Directions:
• In the bowl of mixer, beat butter, cream, and vanilla on medium speed until smooth.
• Reduce mixer speed to low and slowly add powdered sugar and cinnamon, beating until just combined.
• Increase speed to high and beat until fluffy and smooth (about 1 minute). If frosting is too thin, add a bit more powdered sugar.
For Funnel Cakes: • 1 ¾ cups all-purpose flour • ¼ teaspoon salt • 1 ¼ teaspoons baking powder • 1 1/3 cups whole milk • 3 tablespoons white sugar • 2 eggs • Vegetable oil for frying
Directions:
• In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, salt, and baking powder.
• In the bowl of mixer, cream milk, sugar, and eggs. Add the flour mixture and beat until smooth. The batter should resemble thick pancake batter: a pourable but thick enough to hold its shape when poured into the hot oil. If it is too thick, add a bit of milk. If it is too thin, add a bit more flour until it is the right consistency.
• Pour oil in an 8-inch skillet. The oil should be about an inch high. Heat until it reaches 375 °F, or until batter sizzles when you drop a bit in.
• Using a funnel or a pancake batter dispenser, pour batter in the pan in a circular motion. Do about 3 circles, and then fill in with criss crosses of batter. This will hold it all together. Cook in the oil until the bottom turns a dark golden color, then flip over and do the same. Drain funnel cakes on paper towels. Cut into pieces.
To assemble cupcakes:
• Frost prepared cupcakes, then top with pieces of funnel cake. Sprinkle liberally with powdered sugar and serve.
By C&J Catering, Harrisburg, www.candjcatering.com
Special thanks to:
Linens: Special Occasions, Lancaster, www.specialo.com
Rentals: Ace the Party Place, Lancaster, www.acethepartyplace.com
Florals: Petals with Style, Lancaster, www.petalswithstyle.com